Jan 8, 2011

Thou Art the Protector of Life and Breath, Suryanar Kovil


Kaalava Munivar was visibly disturbed. Something seemed to be eating him from the inside-out. Every now and then he sat down, held his head in his hands, offered his prayers and then got up to think on his feet again. What could have disturbed him so much?

The cause of all his distress was however, a highly unusual gift that he possessed. He was a Trikaala Gnaani, one who had the wondrous ability to have complete knowledge of happenings in the Past, the Present and the Future. The Mukkaalas (The Three Tenses) opened themselves to him, laying bare the facts that even the gods are unaware of. And the latest news from them bore very sad tidings indeed.

The Three Tiered Entrance Gopuram
“Thava Sreshta (The best of those in Tapa)”, said Time, its voice a mixture of screeching winds and howling thunder, “you will soon be affected by leprosy. Be prepared.” Hearing this, Kaalava was shattered. He thought about the effects of the dreaded disease. The sight of his deformed hands and legs flashed before him. How would he continue his uninterrupted service to Bhagavan with those limbs? Why did he ever have to know of this sad plight of his? He looked around his ashrama. The deer, the birds, the peacocks and even his disciples wandered around, blissfully unaware of what the future held for them. Kaalava’s body shivered with fright and despair. His greatest gift had now become the source of his greatest discomfort.

Suddenly, he stopped in mid stride. “Why didn’t I think of this before?” he chided himself, “Of course, they will help. They rule every aspect of my life as well as everyone else’s. The Nava Grahas will surely help me out of the shadow that has fallen upon me”. Deep in thoughts about this sure shot way out of his foretold misery, he made preparations to summon the nine planets, the very controllers of human life. He set up a Panchagni, and standing in midst of the five fires, bringing his five senses under control, he invoked the Nava Grahas.

आदित्याय सोमाय मङ्गलाय बुधाय च|
गुरु शुक्र शनिभ्यश्च राहवेकेतवे नमः||
“Salutations to the Nava Grahas, the Sun, Moon, Mars, Mercury,
Jupiter, Venus, Saturn, Rahu, and Ketu.”

He chanted, on and on, each time with an increased zest. The fire being fed by his yogic powers rose all around him. Time flew and the Nava Grahas, pleased with the Rishi’s devotion appeared before him, and granted his wish. They averted the disease that was to torture Kaalava and saved him from possible pain and ignominy, not realising that they had just changed someone’s written destiny and as a result, theirs too.

In the heavens, Brahma was furious. Sathyaloka shook with his anger. “How dare they change the fate of Kaalava written by me, the Creator?” he barked at Saraswathi, “They will pay a heavy price for this.” Summoning the Nava Grahas to Sathyaloka, Brahma, in his state of extreme anger, cursed them thus, “You, who averted leprosy from afflicting Kaalava, will suffer it in his place. You have forgotten the Laws of Creation, of Karma and the power of my very writings on the fate of every individual ever born. Every person has to go through what was written at their times of birth. Destiny should not be changed, only made less harsh if needed.”

The stunned Grahas, in their moment of shock, apologized profusely to the Creator and asked him to reconsider his curse. Brahma calmed down and shook his head, “Two things return not, the sped arrow and the said word. You will suffer in Kaalava’s place. I can just hope that the suffering will be much less harsher than was intended to. I suggest you to worship Praananatheswarar at Thirumangalankudi to ease your period of unrest. He alone can help you now.”

The Grahas accordingly came to Thirumangalankudi and offered their sincere prayers to Mangalaambikai sametha Praananatheswarar at the ancient temple located there. And then choosing a suitable spot away from the temple, they installed an idol of Vinayagar and started their penance. Pleased with their focused penance, Eeshwara appeared before them and lifted the curse of Leprosy. The Grahas, happy with their regained health returned to Swarga Loka.

Kaalava Munivar, now wanted to thank the Grahas for all the troubles that they had been through for his sake. He raised a temple, dedicated to the Nine Planets, at the spot where they had performed their penance and consecrated the main idol of Surya, the leader of the Grahas, naming him ShivaSooryaNarayana Perumal at this sthala. Suryanar Kovil, thus, came into existence with the powers of Kaalava Munivar and to this day remains the only temple where each of the Grahas have their own shrine.

Sri Suryanarayanar - Utsavar
Located near Kumbakonam and Mayiladuthurai, Suryanar Kovil is the first among the Navagraha Kshetras. What was once a brick structure was beautified and completely remade in stone by the first Kulothunga Chozhan. The main sanctum houses Surya along with his consorts Usha and Chayadevi. Surya and his wives are seen to be standing with Surya holding fully bloomed red-lotuses in either hand. Since Shiva had granted the Grahas complete powers to grant any wish to the devotees who worship them, the main deity is named Shiva Surya Narayana Perumal at this sthala.

A very elaborate protocol is followed to worship at the temple. It is required that one visits the temple at Thirumangalankudi before they arrive at Suryanar Kovil. Only after they get to worship Praananatheswarar and Mangalanayaki should the devotee proceed towards the Surya temple

Kol Theertha Vinayagar
The temple greets us with an ancient three-tiered gopuram. Following the entrance is the Balipeetham. Near the Balipeetham, where one would normally find Nandi in Shiva temples, there is present the statue of a horse, the vehicle of Surya Bhagavan. The horse is aptly named Saptha (after the seven horses pulling the one-wheeled chariot of Surya). At the southwest corner of the Main Prakara is a shrine housing Ganapati, revered in this sthala as Kol Theertha Vinayagar. Since he had helped the Grahas to get rid of their problem (kol), he is worshipped here by this name. People first pray at this small shrine and then proceed to the Narthana Mandapa to worship Nataraja enshrined in the Sabhanayakar Mandapa. After paying due respects to the chief deities of the temple – Viswanathar and Visalakshi, pilgrims enter the main sanctum sanctorum to have a view of Surya Narayana Perumal. Opposite Surya’s shrine, is present the shrine dedicated to Jupiter (or Guru). He is shown in a very calm posture, with his right hand in an Abhaya Mudra and his left hand sitting on his lap. Kaalava had installed Brihaspati opposite Surya’s sanctum to reduce the anger and the possible heat radiated by the Sun God. Following the darshan of Guru, pilgrims proceed out through the Karna Dwaram and then into the Southern prakaram to seek the blessings of Shani (Saturn), Budhan (Mercury) and Angarakan (Mars). Devotees then come into the Northern prakaram and after offering worship to Chandran (Moon) and Ketu, they finally enter the Western prakaram and prostrate before Shukran (Venus) and Rahu and finish their circumambulation of the temple with the worship of Chandikesar. The protocol states that the worship at the temple is complete only when the pilgrims return to the Vinayagar shrine again and offer their prayers there.

Sounds highly confusing right?? No worries. People who plan to go there may rest free and not fret about having to remember all this. The temple authorities have done a wonderful job painting arrows marking the path from one point to another. 

Sri Sooryanarayana Perumal - Moolavar
It is a wonder to notice that when the above order of worship is observed, the pilgrims tend to circumambulate in an anti-clockwise direction (Apradakshinam) as opposed to the traditional clockwise pradakshinam. Also, unlike the Nava Graha shrines at other temples, all the eight planets have their shrines so that they all face towards Surya Narayana Perumal. Usually, there are two ways in which the Nava Graha idols can be consecrated – Aagama Pradishtai and Vaitheeka Pradishtai. At Suryanar Kovil, the Grahas have been consecrated with the Aagama Pradishtai and have been installed in the following layout.

North

Rahu

Shukran

Ketu

Guru

Suryan

Chandran

Shani

Budhan

Angarakan

None of the Grahas in this temple bear any weapons in their hands and neither are they seated on their respective vehicular mounts (except Surya), which is yet another odd fact.

People with various Graha Doshas gather at the respective Graha’s shrine and perform Graha Preethi, Graha Shanthi Homams and other poojas to lessen the hardships that are given by Graha Doshas. People who are going through their Ashtamaththu Shani or Ezhara Shani (Seven and a half years) visit Suryanar Kovil, and worship the Grahas for two months to reduce the negative effects of any Graha Sanchara. The simplest of all these worship procedures is the lighting of lamps at each of the nine shrines. Even as one enters the temple, one can come across many shops selling sets of nine lamps complete with the ghee and wicks. Pilgrims buy these plates and offer one lit lamp at every shrine, praying for a life of peace and prosperity.

Every Sunday, one would find a number of people chanting the Aaditya Hrudayam in the temple premises. Believed to have been taught to Rama by Agastya to vanquish Ravana, the Aaditya Hrudayam is believed to be a wish-fulfilling Shloka. By chanting it nine times on Sundays at Suryanar Kovil, it is believed that the Sun God will bless us with the fruition of our desires

The temple is also supposed to cure people with skin diseases, especially leprosy (No prizes for guessing that!!!). Inscriptions in the temple claim that he who bathes in the temple tank on Ratha Sapthami day, with the leaves of Vellerukku (Calotropis-Procera) on his head, will lead a life free from any form of skin problem. Thousands of pilgrims take bath in the temple tank on Ratha Sapthami, with the Vellerukku leaves on their heads to free them from all the Graha Doshas.

An impressive depiction on the Vimanam
Vellerukku is the sthala Vriksha and is often used to make statues of Vinayaga. Vellerukku Pillayar is believed to protect one from the evil eye (drishti) and is a highly coveted possession.

Suryanar Kovil is the start point of the Navagraha Sthala Yathra, which then proceeds along the rest of the eight Graha temples, all of which are located within a 100 km radius. The temple sees large crowds during times of Shani and Guru Peyarchis and has its greatest celebration planned during the birth of Thai every year. Makara Shankranthi, which marks the start of the Sun’s northward journey (Uttarayana) and Ratha Sapthami (when the wheels of Surya’s chariot are believed to start moving in a changed direction) are two main highlights of the Thai Thiru Vizha in the temple. Apart from this, there are elaborate Abhisheka rituals conducted at the beginning of every Tamil Month. Known as Maha Abhishekam, the event draws a considerable amount of people from the surrounding areas and beyond.

It is believed that when propitiated in the right way Surya bestows one with strength, health, sharp eyesight, shining skin, a thriving intellect and long life. Abhisheka with cool water, offerings of wheat, archana with red lotus, adornment with red silk and ruby embedded jewels, Suryanamaskaras and Naivedya of Chakkara pongal and Kesari are said to please the Sun god and invite his blessings. People with various Graha doshas throng the place to do the necessary Parihaaras (Counter measure worship) to the respective planet. For where else would you find the all sustaining Sun holding court with 8 of the planets who hold human life in their hands? Probably just here. Just here at Suryanar Kovil.

The temple, though small, is well maintained and clean. I would surely recommend this temple to any person suffering from a Graha dosha, as also the rest of the Navagraha temples scattered around. Not only would you find peace of mind, but also the grace and blessings of the One who Sustains All Forms of Life on Earth, Surya.

“Thou art the Giver of Life, 
Remover of pain and sorrow,
The Bestower of happiness,
Oh! Creator of the Universe,
May we receive thy supreme sin-destroying light,
May Thou guide our intellect in the right direction.”
-The Gayathri

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