The King of Malabar had his eyebrows locked together in serious thought. “Azhagar does not belong in that land. He should be here. Chera Desa would be a far more appropriate kshetra for the residence of Azhagar” he said to himself. “And then both the statues of Aparanji will be in my kingdom. Ha Ha Ha!!!” The king laughed loudly with the madness of the idea that had suddenly seized his senses.
Today, Chera Desa houses the most famous Malai Naattu Divya Desam of Thiruvananthapuram, where Anantha Padmanabhaswamy gives darshan lying on the Sesha, the entire statue having been sculpted from Aparanji. The King of Malabar, not sufficiently happy with this divine presence of Narayana in his kingdom, was now scheming to smuggle the utsavar idol of Azhagar into the Malabar Coast. “Shall I declare a war with the Pandya King?” he questioned his closest of ministers. “I have to get the idol at any cost. We can easily crush them” he added haughtily.
The minister for treasury stepped forward, “Your Highness”, he bowed low, “The Pandya army, though smaller compared to ours, is highly versatile. Besides, they have the promise from Somasundara, who is none other than Parameshwara himself, that he would protect their empire, no matter what may come. Have you forgotten the rumour of Indra’s invasion? A sole man with a “Bull flag” flying from his chariot, single handedly defeated the army, and all the arrows that found their marks had the Rishaba Muthra (Bull Seal) on them. The Pandya emblem happens to be a fish, and may I remind you that Rishaba is the lord’s mount. I believe the best way to get the idol would be through stealth and magic”, he suggested.
“Hmm… True”, reflected the king. ”The protection offered by Shiva is formidable indeed. We have to resort to the darker sides of our nature. Gather the best of Tantriks and Magicians in the empire and bring them to me before dawn. There is much planning to be done.” Having ordered thus, he dismissed his ministers.
Two days later, eighteen people, well versed in the darker secrets of the Atharvana Veda, Tantra and warfare, secretly left for the capital of the Pandya Empire, Madurai. They were accompanied in spirit by the Guardian Deity of Malabar, Malayala Karuppu. Tackling their way through the Western and Eastern Ghats, they finally landed up at the outskirts of Madurai. Before them, the four magnificent towers of the Meenakshi Sundareswarar temple rose high into the skies, twinkling with lights. Ignoring this splendid sight, they turned their heads left. There, the lone but equally impressive tower of Azhagar Kovil, shone bright in the night lamps.
They had arrived!!!
The Arthajaama Puja was in progress when the eighteen men walked inside. With ashes smeared on their forehead, dressed in clean white silken clothes, they looked like ardent devotees who had come to take part in the ritual worship. The men bowed low before the majestic statue of Azhagar, their eyes closed. To everybody present they appeared to be deep in prayer. However, within their hearts, they chanted in unison, powerful mantras from the Atharvana Veda. They were trying to sap the power of Azhagar and collect it into eighteen specially prepared Kalasas that they had brought with them. Their idea was very simple. Once the divine sanctity of Azhagar was transferred to Malabar, the Aparanji statue would automatically follow them to reside in the actual kshetra than remain at Thirumaaliruncholai, where the sanctity would no longer exist.
But someone was so against their plan. MahaVishnu smiled at their stupidity. How could they transport his powers without his approval? How very naïve of them to think of this as a cake walk? Narayana decided to teach a lesson to the King of Malabar. He summoned Malayala Karuppu, yes the very Karuppu who had accompanied the eighteen magicians, and set him up against his own hordes. “Destroy them!” ordered Vishnu, “their intentions are not honourable.” Karuppu bowed to divine will and set forth to carry his orders.
By now, the eighteen magicians had successfully transferred the sanctity of Azhagar into their Kalasas. Elated with their victory, they rushed out of the temple and down the steps to the Raja Gopuram. There, suddenly, the gigantic doors of the Raja Gopuram closed automatically, as if controlled by invisible hands. By the very force of the doors, the eighteen men were crushed to death and buried under the steps. The eighteen Kalasas floated in mid air to the sanctum and emptied themselves over the statue of Azhagar, returning the divine powers to the rightful place. Azhagar glowed splendidly with renewed sanctity and holiness.
It was then that the priests heard a rustle, like air moving in water. And before them materialised a mighty figure. Dressed as a warrior, complete with a long-sword and matted locks, pitch black in colour, stood Malayala Karuppu. “Oh priests of the temple of Azhagar, I have sinned terribly in trying to steal the sanctity of Parampurusha himself from this abode of his. As a penalty for aiding a thieving mission, I will guard this temple till the end of times. I will make sure that robberies and other immoralities do not take place in the temple and in the surrounding villages. I will guard the temple, over these very eighteen bodies. In times of trouble, I will come in aid.” Having said so, he suffused into the temple doors. The doors glowed bright for a moment with Karuppar’s potency and then everything went quiet. Malayala Karuppar had taken his final place.
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| The Doors of Pathinettampadi Karuppar |
Since Karuppar stands guard over the eighteen dead bodies of the magicians from Malabar; he is often referred to as Pathinettampadi Karuppar and is the chief guardian deity of Azhagar Malai. In a mark of respect to Karuppar, the main doors of the temple remain closed for most of the year. It is believed that Karuppar resides within them, looking over the kshetra and the neighbouring villages. During this time, the devotees worship the very doors as the guardian deity. They smear sandal paste over the doors to cool his anger and make offerings of long forged swords. Some of the swords are double a man’s height and offer a very frightening sight. The doors also act as the seat of the local Panchayat. It is believed that people who utter lies in the vicinity of these doors have their lives destroyed by the guardian god’s wrath. Villagers wanting to resolve criminal and civil issues bring the accused to the doors of the temple. There the accused is made to promise on his/her innocence with Karuppar as the witness, the belief being that if he/she did do wrong and refused it in front of the doors, then Karuppar would give him/her the rightful judgement. A nominal fee of Rs 6 is charged for any such case brought to the temple doors.
The doors are however, kept open once a year during the Brahmotsava. A strange phenomenon takes place that day. The jungles surrounding the temple, which are usually alive and vibrant with the calls of birds, remain drowned in stark silence. Not a single bird is found in the vicinity of the temple, and the temperature in the region shoots up by several degrees. People believe that this is indeed a manifestation of Karuppar’s unvented wrath. On this day alone, Chakraththazhwar, the divine discus of the lord, comes out of the temple through the Rajagopuram doors. Even Azhagar does not have this privilege of walking out through these doors. Special poojas are then offered to the open doors before they are closed again at night, never to open for another 365 days.
Karuppar also takes part in the day to day running of the temple. Every morning, the priest who brings water for Azhagar’s abhisheka has to pause before the doors and promise that the water was indeed brought from the Noopura Gangai and not from anywhere else. At the end of the day, the accounts of the daily activities are laid before him and finally he is also entrusted with the keys of the temple treasury at night. He is also invoked for the protection of the lord and his retinue when Azhagar embarks on his 10 day long trip to Madurai, in the month of Chithirai every year. And that brings us to the grandest story ever of Azhagar Kovil - a story that is enacted every year, to this very day.
The Queen of Madurai, Thadaathagai, was to marry Somasundarar (the one as beautiful as the moon), who was none other than Shiva himself, in a spectacular ceremony that was to be held at the city center. Having lost her father at a very young age, Thadaathagai had no one to give her away during the Kanikaadhaanam ceremony (The Kanikaadhaanam is when the father places his daughter’s hand in the palm of her future husband and pours water over the enjoined hands, signifying the giving away of his ownership on the bride. This is often considered the most important part in a Hindu Marriage). Highly distressed, Thadaathagai turned to her brother for help, “Narayana!!! Azhaga!!! Will you give me away in marriage to my lord?” she pleaded. Vishnu readily agreed to the prayers of his dear sister. “I will come down from my hilly abodes of Vrishabadri with all due respects and gifts and give you away in marriage to Eeshwara. Do not worry and brighten up, Oh bride!!!” he teased. Delighted by the promise, Thadaathagai prepared herself for her marriage.
Next day, the sun rose over the horizons to the recitation of the Vedas and mantras echoing from the marriage hall. Somasundarar sat at the altar, all decked up, radiant and bright, the most handsome one on earth. The sacrificial fire was lit and due offerings were being made when Thadaathagai entered. Escorted by her mother, Kanchanamaala, she made her way to the stage and sat besides Somasundarar. The marriage rituals were proceeding in full swing and everyone was eagerly waiting for Azhagar’s arrival.
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| Meenakshi Thirukkalyanam |
At that very moment, by the banks of the river Vaigai on the far side of the city, Azhagar stood with his retinue, in a thorough fix. The Vaigai was in a spate. There was no way his retinue could ever cross the river and make it to the city safely. He decided to go alone and stepped into the river, wetting himself all over. Through sheer determination he waded across the rushing waters and made it to the city and finally to the marriage hall. And there, to his great shock, the marriage feast was being enjoyed thoroughly by one and all. The marriage was over!!! Azhagar was livid with anger and he stormed out of the city in a huff, feeling dishonoured and embarrassed.
However, at the banks of the Vaigai, he was met by the newly married couple accompanied by Koodal Azhagar. “Azhaga, don’t be in a huff.” reasoned Somasundara. ”The auspicious time prescribed for the marriage was running out. I had no choice but to call upon Koodal Azhagar to give away the bride. After all, she is his sister too”. With Somasudarar’s soothing words, Azhagar realised his folly and blessed the divine couple with his whole heart. “Forever, shall I guard this empire of yours, my sister”, he said. And then, with his retinue in tow, he returned back to Vrishabadri.
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| Azhagar Aatril Iranguthal |
This divine play of the gods is enacted every year with much fanfare during the Chithirai Thiruvizha at Madurai. Ten days prior to Chithira Pournami, Azhagar sets out from his abode in Vrishabadri with a large retinue. Pathinettampadi Karuppar is first invoked for protection during the journey and a complete inventory of the items that are being taken is placed at the doors. Over the next 10 days, the itinerary of Azhagar covers a lot of places, mandapas and hamlets on the way to Madurai. On the day of Chithira Pournami, at Madurai Thallakulam, Azhagar is adorned with a garland that has been worn by Sri Aandal in Srivilliputhur, thus keeping up with his unending love for “Soodikodutha Sudarkodi” Sporting this fragrant garland, he finally reaches the banks of the Vaigai and with his entire retinue, gets down into the river. Azhagar is dressed as a hunter, with a red turban around his crown and a long spear in his hand. He is seated on a golden horse that is shown to be prancing with the happiness of being able to carry the Paramapurusha himself on its back. This event marks the highlight of the Chithirai Thiruvizha and is called “Azhagar Aatril Iranguthal”. At the same time, Koodal Azhagar enters the river from the Madurai side to welcome Azhagar. He is seated on a silver horse and comes with the hope of explaining the change in the marriage plans to Azhagar. This divine meeting is referred to as “Ethir Sevai” and thousands of people bathe in the river when the two Azhagars get into it. The citizens of Madurai sport small water guns with which they spray water onto Azhagar and Koodal Azhagar, completely soaking them from crown to lotus-feet. It is a loving act of welcome by the Madurai citizens, through which they try to reduce the extreme effect of the peak summer sun on the Lord’s delicate skin.
People also get very excited about the dress that Azhagar is adorned with when he gets into the river. The general belief is that the color of Azhagar’s dress will dictate condition of the year ahead. Green silk indicates prosperity and growth, red foretells a year of famine and disasters, while white indicates just another normal year. On the morning of the Vaigai Spectacle, the chief priest places a blindfold over his eyes and plunges his hand into the huge trunk that contains Azhagar’s clothes. From the trunk he draws out the first dress-robe that he reaches. The emergent dress is believed to be a direct consequence of divine will and is thus a sacred forecast of the year ahead.
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| Azhagar as Matsya, Koorma and Vaamana Avataras |
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| Garuda Seva before Manduka Moksham |
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As Raama, Krishna and Mohini at Thenur Mandapam
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Before the days of Thirumalai Nayakkar, the two festivals were celebrated separately, with the Azhagar Thiruvizha happening in Chithirai (April-May) and the Thirukkalyana Vizha being observed in Maasi (February-March). To promote Shaiva-Vaishnava unity, the then ruler of Madurai, Thirumalai Nayakkar, combined these two festivals into a single grand-scale celebration to be observed in the month of Chithirai. To this day, the poojas at Azhagar Kovil are carried out without any Shaiva-Vaishnava disparities, keeping up with the King’s words. Also, followers of Jainism, Islam and Buddhism are known to have offered their respects at the temple at various points of time in history.
Apart from the Chithirai Vizha, the temple celebrates it’s Brahmotsavam in Aadi ( July-August) and has a three day Thirumanjana Festival in Aippasi (October-November), when Azhagar is taken up the hills to the source of the Noopura Ganga for a ritual bath. The temple also celebrates various other Vaishnava and Tamil festivals like Sri Jayanthi, Rama Navami, Pongal, Tamizh Varuda Pirappu and so on. Every month, there is always some festival or the other that is observed at the temple amidst much chantings and grand processions.
Tulabharam is a favorite act of offering at the temple. Devotees, whose prayers have been fulfilled, donate coins and paddy in equal measure to their body weight at the temple offices. Many others also tonsure their heads and offer their hair as a return for their answered prayers. Offering clothes and dresses to adorn the Moolavar is still another practice that is in vogue. And we have already read about the tasty dosas that get made from the grains that are offered by the grateful farmers for their bountiful harvests. Once upon a time, the temple boasted of rich and generous donations from kings and powerful visitors. Such was the sanctity of the place.
Azhagar Kovil is just 18 km from Madurai and plenty of buses ply from the city. I would recommend that you set aside an entire day for this visit, for it would also include a short climb up the beautiful green hill to the Pazhamuthirsolai Temple of Muruga and a further short walk to Noopura Gangai and the Raakayi amman temple. People flock in large numbers on Saturdays and Sundays to have a glimpse of the lord and then relax lazily under the shady trees that are plentiful in the region. It is not an uncommon sight to see large families enjoying picnics at various places on the hillock. The cool waters of Noopura Gangai are really a pleasant relief in the hot months of summer. And above all, you get to behold the awe inspiring closed doors of Karuppar, replete with the swords and of course feast your eyes on the beautiful Aparanji statue of Azhagar.
மாலிருஞ்சோலையென்னும் மலையையுடையமலையை
நாலிருமூர்த்திதன்னை நால்வேதக்கடலமுதை
மேலிருங்கற்பகத்தை வேதாந்தவிழப்போருளின்
மேலிருந்தவிளக்கை விட்டுசித்தன்விரித்தனவே - பெரியாழ்வார்
"This Thirumaaliruncholai kshetra, the Lord who has this place as his residence and the holy mountain which houses the divinely beautiful mountain, who is Vishnu,
Who has eight forms and who is the very nectar which emerged from the sea of the four Vedas,
Who is the most compassionate, who is the ever granting Karpaka Vriksha, and who is beyond the very essence of the Vedanta.
This divine beauty of the one who is the most beautiful, Vishnu Chittar sings in his praise, the above ten verses" - Periyazhwar
Deepak Swamy,
ReplyDeleteBeautiful posting and pictures... Your writing is creative and has a refreshing style! Keep it up!
adiyEn rAmAnuja dAsan