Jul 3, 2011

A Tale of Three Cities - Thiruvadhigai, Ashta Veerattaanam - 2

அப்பணி செஞ்சடை ஆகி புராதனன்
முப்புரம் செற்றனன் என்பர்கள் மூடர்கள்
முப்புரமாவன மும்மல காரியம்
அப்புரம் எய்தமை ஆர் அறிவாரே - திருமூலர்
“The Primordial Lord, bearing the crescent moon on his crimson matted locks,
destroyed the three great cities, so tell the unwise and the ignorant.
The three cities are in fact the triple impurities and nothing else,
It is the impurities that he burnt, but only a few who understand this truth”
-Thirumoolar

This life of ours is a gift from the Supreme, who reigns this world as well as the rest. It comes with its own god-given support system consisting of the triple virtues – love (Prema), knowledge (Buddhi) and the primordial energy (Shakthi) which sustains it all. However, we are often unable to keep the three virtues in their pure untainted states and mostly we end up imprisoning them within the three strong castles of bondage, namely, ego (Ahankara), Karma and illusion (Maya). Once caught in the web, we hardly get to escape from it, or worse, we seldom realize the imprisoned state of our virtues. This is when the divine seeks to help us out of the trouble that we have put ourselves into. The first step in the destruction of the three vices, however, is to be taken from our side. We have to let go of the ‘I’ in us and surrender to the belief that we are all but mere puppets in the cosmic show. This way, the ego breaks down, and with the firm belief that we are no longer in charge of our actions; Karma slowly loses its significance too. At long last, when this truth is firmly embedded in our intelligence, the fog of illusion is lifted and we dwell in eternal bliss. This is the very gist of Karma Yoga as Krishna details in the third chapter of the Gita.

मयि सर्वाणि कर्माणि सन्न्यस्याध्यात्मचेतसा।
निराशीर्निर्ममो भूत्वा युध्यस्व विगतज्वर:।। - श्री भगवद्गीता (3, 30)
“Surrendering all your works unto Me,
with full knowledge of Me, without desires for profit,
 with no claims to proprietorship,
and free from lethargy, fight.” – Shri Bhagavad Gita (3, 30)

Of course none of the above said happens without us having to be twitched around by the puppeteer. It was to illustrate this necessary participation of the Paramatma, in the destruction of the vices of the Jeevatma that the entire episode of Tripurasamhaara was acted out in the cosmic theatres. The story of the Tripuras and their destruction is perhaps one of the most sung leelas of Shiva in the Thevaram and the Thirumurai. It also occurs repeatedly in the Vedas, the Sarapopanishad, the Mahabharatha, Thirumurugattrupadai, Shivapurana, Puranaanooru and several other pieces of Vedic and Dravidian literature. Though the incident is variously related with the pilgrimage towns of Trayambak in Maharashtra, Kashi and several other North-Indian shrines, we will restrict ourselves to the tiny hamlet of Thiruvadhigai in the Cuddalore district of Tamil Nadu. The shrine at Thiruvadhigai has close ties with the Tripurasamhaara and is the second stop on our list of the Ashta Veerattaana Thalangal.

The legend of Tripurasamhaara was narrated by Duryodhana in the Karna Parva of the Mahabharatha (Chapters 33-34) to Shalya, who was reluctant to be the charioteer of Karna, and the other assembled warriors. It is believed that the story was originally conveyed by the sage Markandeya to Dhritharashtra, in the presence of Duryodhana. The tale begins with the relentless and powerful penance of Taaraka, a ruthless Asura king. He was an immense Shiva bhaktha and regularly conducted Shiva poojas and vrathas. However, the very tainted asuric-blood, which had thrived through the long lineage of Daityas, flowed in his very veins. As a result, he was possessed with the impossible idea of achieving invincibility, supreme power, and immortality, and that was precisely the reason for his latest penance to please Shiva. Finally, when Shiva appeared before him to grant his boon, Taaraka very cleverly demanded that he could be killed only by a son of Shiva and no one else. Shiva’s lips twitched lightly, but nevertheless, he granted this boon and disappeared.  But Shiva had no child! Worse, he did not even have a wife at that period of time, with Sati having immolated herself at Daksha’s yagna. Taarakasura was simply thrilled that he had tricked the Lord into granting him immortality. Little did he consider the intelligence of the Supreme Being, who had created the seemingly ‘intelligent’ him?

The subsequent narrative of the marriage of Shiva and Parvathi, the birth of their son, Kumara, and his eventual victory over Taarakasura form the central theme of the Skandapurana.

Coming back to our tale, the Asura Taaraka had three sons - Vidhyunmaali, Taarakaaksha and Kamalaaksha. They too were staunch devotees of Shiva, and just like their father, their love for power and immortal life stimulated them to meditate on Brahma, the grandsire of all creation. For thousands of years they meditated on one leg, inhaling only air, hardly taking in any solid food. Brahma, as always, the easiest to please of the Trimurthis, rushed down to them and immediately consented to grant their boons.

“Sons of Taaraka, what is it that you seek? Ask and it shall be given.” said Brahma. The Asuras voiced their one boon in unison, “We seek immortality, Oh Grandsire. Death should never befall us.”
“That, I am afraid, is a boon that I will not grant.” quipped Brahma, “Ask for something else.”

“Then, Oh mighty creator!!!” the Asuras chorused again, “Grant us two boons, the first being that no one in this creation of yours should be stronger than us.” Brahma at once gave his nod, all his four heads vigorously going up and down. “And grant us three forts, one made out of gold, one of silver and one of iron. These three forts should be able to fly, roam and go to any place that we desire. The forts would come together, but once in a thousand years, at a specified time and place. Only when the foremost one amongst the gods, who bears in him half the strength and prowess, of each of the 33 crore Devas, will, with one shaft, pierce those three cities united into one, shall we, the Tripuraasuras meet our end. This is our wish.” The grandsire gulped nervously, rolled his eyes, granted them their ridiculous wish and was gone in a jiffy, lest they asked for more alarming boons.

By the command of Brahma, Maya, the Danava architect, was commissioned to build the three cities. Maya let his imagination flow and soon there were three beautiful cities, filled with palaces, gardens, orchards, Shivaalayas, fountains, wide roads and grand intricate gateways, fully equipped with weapons and divine space chariots. The Kalpaka Vrikshas and the celestial cows present in the forts made sure that the inhabitants were kept happy by yielding them all the material wealth that they desired. The three kings lived in their individual forts and with great piety and regularity, performed Shiva Poojas and observed the Vrathas and festivals. The golden fort was built in the heavens and was occupied by Taarakaaksha. The silver one was constructed in the skies and went to Kamalaaksha. The iron fort was built on earth and was inhabited by Vidhyunmaali. The forts floated around the worlds, like some giant ancient UFO’s, at peace with each other and with the three worlds.

In the meanwhile, a burning desire was kindled in Hari, the son of Taarakaaksha. He too wanted to contribute to the glory of the Asura lineage like his father and uncles. So, following in their footsteps, he too went to a dense forest and started to meditate on Brahma. He ate no food and drank no water. He meditated upside down and under the flowing waters of the rivers. He even built a fire and meditated in its midst. Soon, Brahma was pleased beyond his own expectations and he appeared before Hari. Now Hari was a tad more intelligent than the other Asuras. So, when Brahma asked him to state his wish, instead of demanding immortality directly, he took a roundabout approach. “Oh Supreme Creator, grant me the existence of a lake in our city, such that persons, slain by the means of weapons, may, when thrown into it, come out with life, and with redoubled strength.” And Brahma said “Thathaasthu!”. A lake immediately sprung up in the midst of the golden fort, sparkling with a divine shimmer. In whatever form and whatever guise a Daitya might have been slain, if thrown into that lake, he was restored to life, in the self-same form and guise. Hari rejoiced at his laudable achievement and the Asuras planned a grand celebration in his honour.

The Devas make their complaints to Shiva
The Devas however, did not like this at all. They were jealous of the sparkly flying cities, of their immense treasures and were positively freaked out by the magical lake. They even instigated the Maruts to wage a war against the cities, but the forts were simply impregnable. At long last, they ran to Brahma, poured out their unfounded woes and asked the divine Grandsire the means by which the triple cities could be destroyed. The grand old god looked at them meekly, with big sad eyes. It was because of his very boon that the three cities were even in existence. Feeling helpless, they proceeded to Kailasha, but even Shiva turned his face away, stating that the Asuras had not performed anything wrong yet, and hence could not be punished. Panic and fear washed over the Devas like a tidal wave, but they were not ready to give up. Gathering up their tattered hopes, they finally resorted to Vishnu and begged him to show them a way out.
                                                                              
Vishnu, the omnipresent and the omniscient, looked at the Devas and burst out into a laugh, much to the surprise and embarrassment of the assembled gods. “Well, you come to me for such trivial situations, Oh Devas. If they have not yet fallen prey to any sins, don’t we just have to force them into committing some?” he suggested coyly.

The Devas stared back in disbelief, confusion etched onto their faces. Vishnu smiled again and with a gentle wave of his hand he created a man. The man had a clean shaven head and was swathed in faded robes. In his hands he carried a water pot. The man approached his creator, with a piece of cloth covering his mouth and asked, “Master, who am I? Why was I created?”

With the mischievous smile still plastered to his face, Vishnu took the man to one side. “You, who have been created by me will learn a new religion and preach the same. I will be your guru and teach you the religion, all its doctrines and beliefs. You will believe that there is no Swarga and no Naraka. The religion will strongly deny the fact that the rewards and punishments for your acts will be meted out after death. The religion will be against the very Vedas and all its messages. You will then go and preach this religion to the Tripuraasuras, to take them away from the path of righteousness. That will give us sufficient time and excuse to plan their downfall.”

Thus, Vishnu himself taught the man and four of his disciples, the intricacies of the new formed religion. The five of them then resorted to forests near the Tripura and started preaching the religion. Since Vishnu himself had trained them, their act was pretty convincing. The tenets of the new religion were so influential that even Narada got confused and adopted the new religion. In fact, Narada was the one who carried the news of this fantastic new religion to the court of Vidhyunmaali. Hearing about the greatness of the religion from Narada himself, Vidhyunmaali reverentially approached the teachers, took lessons from them and converted to the new faith. His two brothers soon followed suit.

But, as they started practicing the canons of the new religion, they forgot the message of the Vedas. They acted rashly and started waging wars against the Devas. They stopped worshipping the sacred Linga, the Salagrama and other sacred symbols of Sanatana Dharma. The three forts started to fly around at tremendous speeds, killing birds and knocking out the stars. They landed without any prior notice and thousands of innocent lives were crushed to death. Further, instigated by the presence of the divine lake, the Asuras lost the fear of death and started harassing the common people, the rishis, the demigods and other harmless creatures. Deprived of their senses, all of them began to shamelessly exterminate the cities and towns established all over the universe. Thus, day by day, the atrocities of the Tripuraasuras increased drastically - in perfect accordance with Vishnu’s grand plan.

Knowing that the time was finally ripe, Vishnu and Brahma led a delegation of Devas to Kailasha to petition for the destruction of the Tripuraasuras. “Mahadeva”, they voiced in unison and then immediately prostrated before the Supreme Being.

“Our repeated salutations to thee, O Lord. Salutations to thee that art the source of all the gods,
to thee that art armed with the bow, to thee that art full of wrath.
Salutations to thee that had’st destroyed the sacrifice of that lord of creatures,
 to thee that art adored by all the lords of creatures.
Salutations to thee that art always praised, to thee that deservest to be praised, to thee that art Death's self. Salutations to thee that art red, to thee that art fierce, to thee that art blue-throated,
to thee that art armed with the trident, to thee that art incapable of being baffled,
to thee that hast eyes as beautiful as those of the gazelle, 
to thee that fightest with the foremost of weapons,
 to thee that deserves all praise, to thee that art pure, to thee that art destruction's self,
to thee that art the destroyer; to thee that art irresistible, to thee that art Brahman,
to thee that leadest the life of a brahmachari; to thee that art Ishana; to thee that art immeasurable,
to thee that art the great controller, to thee that art robed in tatters;
to thee that art ever engaged in penances, to thee that art tawny, to thee that art observant of vows,
to thee that art robed in animal skins; to thee that art the sire of Kumara, to thee that art three-eyed,
 to thee that art armed with the foremost of weapons,
to thee that destroyest the afflictions of all that seek thy shelter,
 to thee that destroyest all haters of brahmanas, to thee that art the lord of all trees,
 the lord of all men, the lord of all kin, and ever the lord of sacrifices.
 Salutations to thee that art always at the head of troops, to thee that art three-eyed,
 to thee that art endued with fierce energy. We devote ourselves to thee in thought, word and deed.
 Be gracious unto us.”
-Karna Parva, Mahabharatha

Shiva smiled at the gathered gods and demigods, his eyes twinkling with good humor. “Pleased I am you’re your praises. What do you seek from me today?” he asked. The Devas exchanged anxious glances between themselves; not daring to raise their voice in Kailasha. Amazed by the sudden silence, Brahma finally came forward and spoke for the Devas. “It is through your power, Oh Lord that I create and rule over all my creations. It is with the very same power vested by you in me that I granted the boons to the three Asuras. But now, their deeds have gone beyond the limits of tolerance. They no longer tread the path of righteousness. It is you alone who is capable of destroying them. Grace us with the shelter of your lotus feet.”

Maheshwara smiled. “I agree with you, Brahma. We should put an end to this. But I shall not, however, kill them single-handedly. They are tremendously powerful and hence I consider it apt that all of you, united together- with half of my might bestowed upon you, should go to war with the Tripuraasuras.”

Brahma gulped again. “But, Mahadeva, the strength of the Tripuraasuras is twice that of our own. We have already been defeated by the ruthless inhabitants of the forts. And besides, we would never be able to bear even a tiny portion of your energy. On the other hand, with half our might united with you, would you be capable of destroying the Asuras?”

“So be it, Brahmadeva. With half your energies united in me, I will destroy the three Asuras and their forts. Prepare for the war everyone, and provide me with the very best of chariots and horses, a single fine arrow and an equally fine bow.”

The Devas, then transferred half their energies to Parameshwara. With all the added energy, Shiva shimmered bright. Overwhelmed by this extraordinary vision of Parameshwara, the Devas praised him as Pashupathi and sang his glories. Thus was born the Sri-Rudram – the sacrosanct hymn of Shaivas that is found in the Yajur Veda. The Sri-Rudram starts off with praises to Rudra, his two hands, his bow and his arrow - the key requirements for the destruction of the Tripuraasuras.

नमस्ते रूद्र मन्यव उतोत इषवे नम:| नमस्ते अस्तु धन्वने बाहुभ्यामुत ते नम:||
या त इषु शिवतमा शिवम् बभूव ते धनु:| शिवा शरव्या या तव तया नो रूद्र मृडय || - श्री रुद्रं
“Oh! Rudra Deva! My salutations to your anger and also to your arrows.
My salutations to your bow and to your two hands.
Oh! Rudra! By favor of your arrow, bow, and quiver,
which have shed their anger and turned auspicious, please render us happy.”-Sri Rudram

Shiva on the specially built car 
The Devas then got to work at once, to build the most suitable car for Rudra. Vishwakarma, the divine-architect, was consulted and the construction began. Mother Earth, with all her glorious mountains, rivers and forests, became the car. The sun and the moon were made the two wheels of the chariot, balanced on the Mandhara Mountain, which acted as the axle. Nandi became the flag which was hoisted on the Meru mountain that acted as the flag staff. The four Vedas became the four horses drawing the car and the four supreme serpents became their tethers. Brahma was chosen by the demigods to be the charioteer, and in his hand he held the Vedic sound Vashat as the goad, with the Gayathri acting as its string. Time itself became the bow of Shiva and the very shadow of Rudra became the indestructible bowstring (Certain versions claim that Meru was the bow and Vasuki, the king of snakes, was its string.). The 33 crore Devas became various parts of the car and finally, Agni became the point of the fatal arrow and Vayu became its rear end. Vishnu seated himself at the shaft of the arrow, thus becoming the guiding source of its fatality. The newly constructed car,  filled with the requisite weapons was brought to the gates of Kailasha. There, gleaming with the brightness of a million suns, Shiva mounted the special car, while the source of his energy, Parvathi Devi, stood firmly by his side. Everything in place, Brahma goaded the steeds, and the car zoomed forward.

The car made good speed and soon, they were almost at the destination, when suddenly, there was a cracking sound, and the car tilted down on one side. The steeds tripped over and fell upon one another. Shocked by the inauspicious incident, Shiva jumped down from the car and saw that the wheel hubs had broken. Realization dawned upon him as he looked at Parvathi. “It looks like our son is playing with me right now. I agree it is my mistake that I failed to invoke him before I started on this momentous task, and now I see this. Let this be an example to all of mankind, that the laws remain unchanged, even for me, who occupies the highest seat at Kailasha.” Shiva immediately sat down and shaped a small Ganesha out of turmeric, and propitiated his own son, the remover of all obstacles. Humbled by the prayers of his father, Ganesha rushed to the scene and immediately removed all the hindrances that may come forth in the war. The car was soon put back on its wheels and off it sped again.

Sensing approaching danger , the Tripuras flew everywhere, trying to block the path of the divine car, but only in vain. However, the crazy movements of the three forts combined with the weights of Shiva, Vishnu and Meru started to push the earth (car) into the netherworlds. The gods panicked at the plight of Mother Earth  when, in a split second, Vishnu took the form of a giant bull. He lifted the earth from below and put it back into its rightful place. He then rushed into the golden fort of Taarakaaksha and drank up all the water from the Lake of Rejuvenation.

To burn with a smile

Meanwhile, Shiva patiently waited for the appointed time, when the three forts would eventually come together, thus making them vulnerable by the power of the Asuras’ very wishes. Accordingly, during the Sharad Kaala, when the star Pushya was in the ascending, Shiva finally put the arrow, which was Vishnu, onto his bow. The Devas watched with bated breath, some of them loudly calling out their contributions in helping the Lord bring about the destruction of the Tripuraasuras. They took immense pride in the fact that Shiva now bore half of their energies, which was going to help him finish off the three cities. They waited and waited...

But Shiva did not release the arrow. On the other hand, as the Tripuras drew near each other, Maheshwara just looked towards them and smiled gently. At once, the three forts were engulfed by brilliant flames. The Devas immediately hung their heads in shame. Along with the three cities of the Tripuraasauras, the pride and ego of the Devas had also been conquered. His smile alone was sufficient to destroy the cities and here they were, thinking that they were the sole reason for the destruction of the Tripuras. He had asked them for half their energies, not because he was incapable of defeating the Asuras without them, but just to respect the boon granted to the Asuras by Brahma.

Again, in accordance with the boons granted to the three brothers, Shiva released his single arrow on the three Asuras and they were reduced to ashes instantaneously. The ever-compassionate Lord, however, revived the three and made them his Bhootha-Ganas. Hence, Taarakaaksha and Vidhyunmaali were blessed with Saaroopyam (Same form as the Lord) and were appointed as the Dwarapaalakas to Shiva. Kamalaaksha, on the other hand, was assigned to the role of playing the five-headed trumpet during joyous occasions at Kailasha. After all, at one point of time, they had been his greatest devotees.

Tripura Taandava
Vishnu then sent away the preachers of the new religion to live in the great deserts until the beginning of Kali Yuga, when they could start their teachings afresh. Overflowing with joy on this wonderful occasion, Shiva danced gleefully to the beats of Nandi, Parvathi, Vishnu and others, lifting his legs high up into the air, in swift, graceful movements. (The dance of Shiva at the end of Tripurasamhaara is aptly called Tripura Taandava and is one of the major forms of Shiva Taandava.) As the 33 crore Devas watched the rising and falling of his lotus feet with rapt attention, they finally breathed freely after a long hiatus, no longer afraid of any golden airships or iron tanks. 

Tripuranthaka Moorthi
As was said earlier, the temple town of Thiruvadhigai, near Banrutti in Cuddalore district of Tamil Nadu, celebrates this destruction of the Tripuraasuras by Maheshwara. It is believed that the Tripuraasuras were killed, revived and accepted as Ganas at this very place. The Thiruvadhigai temple is spread over 7 acres in three concentric Prakaaras, and is overflowing with a plethora of brilliant sculptures depicting the various forms of Shiva, the Tripurasamhaara episode, and the 108 Karanas (positions) in Bharathanatyam, besides many others. Much of the temple was built during the Pallava regime, and their influence on the plans and the architecture of the temple can be easily felt. The presiding deity is Veerattaneswarar, who is housed in the central shrine as a large, 16-faced, swayambhu Linga. Behind the Linga is a beautiful stucco figurine of Shiva and Parvathi in their Thirukkalyana (marriage) posture. The goddess goes by the name of Tripurasundari, who had accompanied Shiva during the destruction of the Tripuras. Separately enshrined, in yet another shrine known as the Veerattesar Sabha, is the idol of Tripuraari/Tripuranthakar. He is shown to be standing, accompanied by his consort, who is variously praised as Janmamrithyu Vinasini and Tripuravalli. In his hands, he holds a deer, a goad, a bow and an arrow. This shrine is the very heart of the Thiruvadhigai Veerattaanam and houses the form of Shiva who had destroyed the Tripuras. A similar sub-shrine acts as the home to the famous Pancha-Mukha Linga. With four faces in the four cardinal directions and yet another face looking upwards, the Linga is a sight to behold and is not seen anywhere else in Tamil Nadu.

Thirunavukkarasar
The temple at Thiruvadhigai has several laurels to its name. It was here that the Thevaram was first sung. In fact, it was at Thiruvadhigai that Appar, the author of the Thevaram, and one of the Saiva quartet, was rechristened as Thirunavukkarasar. Appar was born as Marulneekkiyaar in a village named Thiruvamoor near Thiruvadhigai. He also had a sister named Thilagavathi. Early into his teens, Marulneekkiyaar was attracted by the covenants of Jainism. Eventually he became a staunch follower of the religion and changed his name to Dharmasenar. His sister on the other hand, tormented by the death of her fiancé Kalippagaiyaar and vexed with life, offered herself to the service of Shiva and all his devotees. She shifted to Thiruvadhigai and regularly worshiped Veerattaneswarar, while helping out the pilgrims who visited the temple in large numbers. While Thilagavathi was at Thiruvadhigai, her brother contracted a severe disease that affected his bowels. As a result, Dharmasenar continuously suffered from an excruciating pain in the abdomen which could not be alleviated by any of the Jain monks. Wishing to see his sister before things became any worse, Dharmasenar secretly left the Jaina school and made his way to Thiruvadhigai. There, he almost collapsed at his sister's feet and begged her to cure him. Shocked by the pitiful condition of her brother, Thilagavathi ran into the sanctum and taking some holy ash, she rubbed it onto Dharmasenar’s stomach and asked him to ingest some. The moment the Vibhuti entered his mouth, the ache vanished completely, leaving no trace at all.  Relief flooded Dharmasenar and his joy burst out in the form of a beautiful Tamil hymn.
கூற்றாயின வாறு விலக்ககிலீர்
கொடுமைபல செய்தன நானறியேன்
ஏற்றாயடிக்கேயிரவும் பகலும்
பிரியாது வணங்குவ னெப்பொழுதும்
தோற்றாதென் வயிற்றி னகம்படியே
குடரோடு துடக்கி முடக்கியிட
ஆற்றே நாடியே னதிகைக் கெடில
வீரட்டா னத்துறை யம்மானே
“The father whodwells in Adhigai Veerattaanam on the northern bank of Ketilam! you do not cure my disease which is giving me pain like the god of death.
I do not knowthat I did many cruel acts intentionally to get this disease. Sivan who has a bull! I bow to your feet only, always night and daywithout leaving them. being invisible, inside my belly. to disable me by binding together with the intestines. I, who am your slave, could not bear the pain
you must admit me as your slave removing the disease.”
And thus was born the Thevaram, one of the foremost of the twelve Shaiva Thirumurais. So pleased was Shiva with his heart-moving pathigams (verses) that, he blessed Dharmasenar with the title of Navukkarasar (the ruler of all tongues). With a renewed zest, Thirunavukkarasar offered himself to the eternal service of Shiva and to spreading the glory of the Shaiva faith. Navukkarasar and Thilagavathiyaar remained in Thiruvadhigai and started the practice of Uravaazhathondu (Cleaning the temple). To this day, the temple at Thiruvadhigai remains sparklingly clean. To honour the two great souls, there are separate shrines for Thilagavathi and Appar within the precincts of the temple

The temple has been sung about by all the three of the Thevaram trio (Thirunavukkarasar, Sundarar and Thirugnanasambandhar). It is the only temple of the Ashta Veerattanas to have been sung so. In fact, when Sundarar visited the place, he was so afraid of stepping on the sacred land that was sanctified by Thirunavukkarasar that he stayed at the nearby Siththavadamadam and offered his prayers from there. One night, while he was asleep, he felt that someone was repeatedly kicking him on his head. Startled by the kicks, Sundarar woke up and realized that it was the Lord who had placed his lotus feet on his head. Feeling energized after having received blessings from the Lord, Sundarar went on to convert the Pallava king, Mahendravarman, from Jainism to the Shaiva faith. Mahendravarman then ordered that the Jain schools be demolished and he built a grand Shiva temple, Thiru Gunapparaveecharam, near Thiruvadhigai. The original temple is now in ruins. However, it was rebuilt by the Pandya kings at a later stage and was even used as a fort by the Marathas and the British.

The Car-shaped Sanctum
Since Shiva had come in a grand chariot to destroy the Tripuras, the central shrine at Thiruvadhigai is itself built like a chariot. The vimana over the central shrine is built such that its shadow never falls on the ground. It is filled with thousands of colourful stucco sculptures, each depicting various scenes from the Puranas and Itihasas. It is believed that Rajaraja Chozhan modeled the famous Brihadeeswara temple at Thanjavur based on this temple. Even the practice of celebrating temple-car festivals originated at this place. Legends even claim that the very first chariot was built solely for Tripurasamhaaram.

Tripurantaka Moorthi on Ambal's Vimana
Kedilam river, also referred to as the Thengangai (Ganges of the South) is the main theertha of the Kshetra. The temple also sports the Soolatheertham. It is believed that people who drink water from the theertha will be cured of ulcers, stomach aches and other gastrointestinal diseases.

Since Shiva had granted darshan to Appar in his Thirumana Kolam (Married form) at Thiruvadhigai, a lot of marriages are solemnized within the temple premises. The sthala by itself happens to be a Kalyanakshetra like Madurai, where the goddess’s shrine is located to the right of the Swami’s shrine.

A popular belief exists that the Lord of Thiruvadhigai delivers his devotees from the triple vices of ego, Karma and illusion. People who come to the temple with Ahankaara (the ‘I’ factor) do not get to return again. Such is the greatness of the temple and the presiding deity. Temple protocol demands that the devotees remain with their heads bowed to the Lord. While applying the sacred ash, one is required to bend his/her head and do so, indicating that we are submitting our egos to the Supreme. The ash reminds us time and again, that at the end of the stipulated time, everything is reduced to ashes.

Bhoga Shayana Narasimhar
Apart from the temple of Veerattaneswarar, Thiruvadhigai is also home to the Saara Narayana Perumal temple. Since Vishnu was the arrow (சரம், Saram in Tamil) that had destroyed the Tripuraasuras, he remained at Thiruvadhigai as Saara Narayanar. The goddess of the temple is known by the name of Hemambujavalli. The temple houses a very unique idol of Bhoga Shayana Narasimha, where Narasimha Swami is shown to be reclining on Adisesha. Such an idol is not found anywhere else in the world. It is believed that Narasimha Swami laid down to take rest after vanquishing a demon named Vakkiraasura. The rare idol is kept covered with gold shields and is often bathed in cool waters to reduce the heat of the Lord’s anger. The presiding deity of the temple is seen to be in a standing posture and is completely carved from Salagrama stone. In an unusual occurence, he is flanked on his right by Sri Devi alone (Usually he is flanked by both Sri Devi and Bhoo Devi). Like at Uppiliappan Kovil, it is believed that Mahavishnu married the daughter of Markandeya Maharishi at Thiruvadhigai. The temple Garudazhwar is also seen to be in an unusual pose, with his hands crossed and bearing the Sudarshana and the Panchajanya. The temple legends speak of the fact that Vishnu gave his conch and discus to Garuda, for safekeeping. while he took the form of Shiva’s arrow. Hence Garuda remains in possession of Vishnu’s weapons at Thiruvadhigai.

Every year, in the month of Vaikasi, Saara Narayana Perumal and Thiruvadhigai Veerattaneswarar take part in the annual 10 day Brahmotsava of the Veerattaneswarar temple. On the ninth day, the entire episode of Tripura-Dahanam is re-enacted in the temple car-streets. Grand scale poojas are offered to Tripuranthaka Moorthi, who is then taken on a car to the banks of the Kedilam river. Saara Narayana Perumal is also carried to the river banks and placed next to the temple car. Three forts are then constructed with hay, dried coconut palm fronds and palm leaves. Wooden dolls of the three Asuras are then placed within the newly-constructed forts. Amidst the chanting of mantras, the arrow is taken from the hands of Tripuranthaka Moorthi and placed on the idol of Saara Narayana Perumal. The powers of Vishnu are then transferred to the arrow, which is once again placed in the hands of Tripuranthakar. Camphor lights and oil lamps are offered to both the idols, and then the three forts are set on fire. After the entire spectacle, due respects and naivedhya are offered to Saara Narayana Perumal, and then Tripuranthakar returns to his shrine, where he is bathed in cool waters to wash away the inauspiciousness of the Asuras’ death. The festival ends with the lowering of the temple flag on the 10th day of Vaikasi Visagam.

Yet another important festival at Thiruvadhigai is the 10-day Appar thiruvizha, which takes place in the month of Chithirai. It celebrates the curing of Navukkarasar’s disease and the subsequent darshan given by Maheshwara. Apart from these, Karthikai Somavaram, Thiruvadhirai, Thirugnana Sambandhar Thiruvizha in the month of Aadi, Maha Shivarathri, Thilagavathiyaar Gurupooja and Pradhoshams also see a large gathering of devotees.

Thiruvadhigai is thus a place worth a visit by any self-respecting human being. As was said earlier, it is only with the destruction of the three impurities of the mind that divine bliss comes to us mortals. What better place to seek for the same than where the Lord himself had symbolically destroyed them?

Thiruvadhigai is located very near to Cuddalore, Pondicherry, and Banrutti and is easily accessible by road and rail.

Notes:

1.  It is interesting to note that the three vices of ego, Karma, and illusion are duly represented by Taarakaaksha, Vidhyunmaali and Kamalaaksha. Once god has had his way with them, the vices are burnt and refined into knowledge, prowess, and love respectively. If one was to closely observe the Dwarapaalakas at some of the Shiva shrines, it can be seen that Taarakaaksha bears earrings that have elephants on them, while Vidhyunmaali sports earrings with lions. Elephant represents knowledge and the lion is perhaps the best example for prowess and strength, and hence the appropriate earrings for the refined Taarakaaksha and Vidhyunmaali. It is also to be understood that, while knowledge and prowess may just get you into His presence, it is only ‘love’ (Kamalaaksha) that is going to make Him happy enough to perform His Aananda Taandava.

2.      The place where the axle of Shiva’s car broke is today known by the name of Accharuppakkam (Acchu – axle, Aru – break). There is a temple dedicated to Acchumuri Vinayagar, who was responsible for the axle’s damage. Shiva is also enshrined here as Pashupathi. It is believed that a rishi named Trinethradhari worshipped Pashupathi and was blessed with a vision of Tripurasamhaara Moorthi.

3.   The legend of Tripurasamhaara is also associated with several other temples such as the Muppuraari Kottam temple in Kanchipuram, Tripurantha Kesam, Simhachalam and the Thevara-Vaippu Thalam of Tripuranthakam. The images, icons and paintings of Tripuranthaka Moorthi and Tripura Taandava Moorthi adorn the walls and pillars of several Shiva temples all over the world.

4.      In the writing of this Purana, it may appear that Jainism has been shown in a bad light. I assure that I have the highest respects for all religions. However, the history of Tamil Nadu does throw up several incidents associated with tyrannical Jain kings. They converted from one religion to another and often ended up confused, thus defaming any religion that they embraced. History also reports the presence of several influential Jains with the wrong ideologies, who attempted to control the affairs of the State by converting the kings. Such converted kings often disrespected people of other faiths and sometimes went to the extent of destroying temples. Shaiva saints like Sundarar and Appar, struggled against these kings, often with the help of divine help, to re-establish religious freedom.

May 16, 2011

Shambho Vs Jumbo - Thiru Vazhuvoor, Ashta Veerattaanam - 1

தென்னாடுடைய சிவனே போற்றி !
என்னாட்டவர்க்கும் இறைவா போற்றி !!
“Praise be to Shiva, He who belongs to the southern lands
Praise be to the supreme, the Lord of all the earth-dwellers”

The first time I heard the verse, I was like rather taken aback by the possessiveness of the Tamil Shaivas in claiming the Lord to be their own. But then, when you start to look around the various cities and villages in the South Indian states, especially in Tamil Nadu, you will most certainly concede with the above couplet. Tens and thousands of temples are dedicated to Maheshwara, many of them dating back several centuries and millennia. Add to it the many ash-smeared foreheads, the rudraksha-clad necks and the countless bulls that roam around freely, it is like Shiva just shifted base from Kailasha to Tamil Nadu.

And it doesn’t stop with just that. Perhaps the best works in Shaiva Siddhantha were also composed in Tamil by a group of 63 devotees hailing from various walks of life. These 63 Nayanmars travelled from one temple to another, singing the praises of the lord, spreading knowledge, performing miracles and having darshans of Shiva at his many-many sacred pilgrimage sites. Their songs often preached esoteric truths about the Lord and his many plays, and are organized into twelve volumes that are collectively known as the Panniru Thirumurai. Out of these twelve volumes, the first seven were exclusively sung by just three of the foremost Nayanmars – Thirunavukkarasar, Sundarar and Thirugnana Sambandar. These seven volumes are today praised by the name of Thevaram (The Lord’s Garland). The three of them had visited 275 Shiva temples between them and had sung at every single shrine. These 275 shrines came to be praised as ‘Thevara Thalangal’ or ‘Paadal Petra Thalangal’ (sites which were sung by the trio). Apart from the 275 shrines, the trio has mentioned an additional 249 unvisited shrines in their verses, which are known as the ‘Thevara Vaippu Thalangal’. So much for just 3 of the 63 Nayanmars.

Amongst these 500 odd shrines, some of the temples are further grouped into smaller categories such as the Pancha Bhootha Thalangal, Saptha Vidanga Thalangal, Ashta Veerattaana Thalangal, Saptha Sthaana Thalangal and so on, depending on the Sthala Purana, the nature of worship etc. It is one such group of shrines that we will be traveling through in the upcoming posts – the Ashta Veerattaana Thalangal

காவிரியின் கரைக்கண்டி வீரட் டானங்
கடவூர்வீ ரட்டானங் காமருசீ ரதிகை
மேவியவீ ரட்டானம் வழுவை வீரட்டம்
வியன்பறியல் வீரட்டம் விடையூர்திக் கிடமாங்
கோவல்நகர் வீரட்டங் குறுக்கை வீரட்டங்
கோத்திட்டைக் குடிவீரட் டானமிவை கூறி
நாவினவின்றுரைப்பார்க்கு நணுகச் சென்றால்
நமன்றமருஞ்சிவன்றமரென்றகல்வர் நன்கே.
- திருநாவுக்கரசர், ஆறாம் திருமுறை
"By the banks of the Kaveri, The Kandi Veerattaanam,
The Kadavoor Veerattaanam, The charming Adhigai Veerattaanam,
The large and spread out Vazhuvai Veerattanam,
The breathtaking Pariyal Veerattaanam, the residence of His bull
Koval Veerattanam, Kurukkai veerattaanam and the
Kotthittaikkudi Veerattanam. By chanting these
with our very lips, even the messengers of Yama will fear to come near
at the time of death, for we are the servitors of Shiva and that alone is glory"
-Sixth Thirumurai by Thirunavukkarasar

Sprinkled over the landscape of Tamil Nadu are eight temples dedicated to Shiva in his terrific form as the destroyer of the bad and the evil. These eight temples, which are collectively known as the Ashta Veerattaana (Veerasthana) Thalangal (The eight shrines of extraordinary valour), are the sanctified spots where the Lord revealed his wrath and strength, and in short tried to show off his heroism. The eight temples are worth a visit, not only for their mind-numbing sanctity, but also for the rare treat of beholding several uniquely beautiful bronze idols, of which there are no other copies in existence. They are unique in their form, pose and structure, and it is only by beholding them that one can fully appreciate the details of the craftsmanship and the flowing beauty of the sculpture. But most importantly, each of these eight temples has a lively story to tell and that’s where kshetrapuranas@blogspot comes in. So, on we go with our journey across these eight kshetras.

Thiru Vazhuvoor, which lies about 9 km from Mayiladuthurai is the sixth of the Ashta Veerattaana Thalangal. Here, the Lord is worshiped as Gajasamhaarar - the slayer of the elephant demon. The Gajasamhaara Moorthi is  revered as one of the SadaaShiva-Moorthams - 64 different forms of Maheshwara that find a mention in our puranas. The Ilankilainaayaki sametha Kiruthivaasar temple at Vazhuvoor is at least 1500 years old, and has been sung by Thirunavukkarasar as a Vaippu thalam in the Thevaram as also by Thirumoolar in his Thirumanthiram.

As is the case with many shrines, the legend and myth of Thiru Vazhuvoor is also intricately linked with other famous events mentioned in our puranas. So back we go to the starting point of perhaps every other myth in the hindu puranas - Ksheera Saagara Manthana or the churning of the Milk Ocean (See Thiruvalanchuzhi and Pradosha Purana).

Terribly weakened by Durvasa’s curse, the Devas were forced to seek help from their Asura cousins for churning the milk ocean to obtain the nectar of immortality. The vile Asuras, surprisingly agreed to extend their helping hands, subject to a single promise – that the Daityas were to be given an equal share of the Amrutha which would come out of the milk ocean. The Devas were so shamefully desperate for any help that they readily agreed to the Asuras’ clause. Finally, the churning began, with the Meru Mountain as the churn and the snake king Vasuki as the rope. After many initial hurdles and setbacks, the Ksheera Saagara ultimately started revealing the richest of its treasures. Out came Kaamadhenu (the sacred wish- yielding cow), Ucchaishravas (The winged horse), Airavatha(The celestial white elephant), Kalpakavriksha (the wish-bearing tree), Kausthuba (The divine jewel), Varuni (The Wine goddess), Maha Lakshmi, Chandran(The Moon) and many other objects of incalculable worth. The Devas and Asuras gleefully divided the extraordinary treasures amongst themselves. Indra claimed both the Kalpakavriksha and Airavatha, while the Asuras gladly accepted Ucchaishravas. Kaamadhenu chose the sage Vasishta to be her owner and Kausthuba decided to grace the chest of Vishnu. Maha Lakshmi too followed Kausthuba and garlanded Shri Vishnu as her groom (thus receiving an eternal spot in his heart) and Chandran decided to adorn the sacred locks of Shiva for eternity.

With the division of the treasures accomplished, the massive churning continued - for they had not yet achieved what they had started out for. Finally, after what appeared like eons, the creamy waves of the milk ocean opened up like a blooming lotus and out emerged Danwantari, the god of health. The water drops on his body shimmered like many jewels and in his hands he bore a jewel encrusted golden pot, brimming with Amrutha - the nectar of immortality. At once the Devas and Asuras pounced upon him, like a pack of hungry dogs on a slice of meat. But Danwantari was too quick for them and he set out like a flying horse. The Devas and Asuras followed, their faces taut with concentration and their arms snatching madly at the empty air in front of them. Each group wanted the entire pot for themselves and earlier promises lay long-abandoned in the race for ever-youthfulness.

It was then that Maha Vishnu decided to act in the best interests of the world that he sustains. The Asuras must be prevented from laying their hands on the nectar at all costs; else the three worlds would suffer. In a moment he transformed himself into the most ravishing beauty anyone had ever set their eyes upon – Mohini. She was so extraordinarily breathtaking that even the Apsaras blushed red with embarrassment. With a full sensuous body draped with the most suggestive of garments, she walked up to the Devas and Asuras who were fighting over the nectar.

तस्यां नरेन्द्र करभोरुरुशद्दुकुल श्रोणीतटालसगतिर्मदविह्वलाक्षी |
सा कुजति कनकनूपुरशिंजितेन कुम्भस्तनी कलशपाणिरथाविवेश ||
तां श्रीसखीं कनककुण्डलचारुकर्णं नासाकपोलवदनां परदेवताख्याम |
संवीक्ष्य संमुमुहु रुत्स्मीतवीक्षणेन देवासुर विगलितस्तन पट्टिकान्ताम ||
-          श्रीमद्भागवतं
“Oh King, that woman, dressed in a most beautiful sari, her thighs resembling the trunks of elephants
Walking very slowly because of her big, low hips, her eyes restless due to youthful pride,
Her golden ankle bells making tinkling sound,
Her breasts like water jugs with a pot in her hand, she entered the arena.
She appeared like a friend of Lakshmi, her, her beautiful ears adorned with ear-rings,
With attractive cheeks, nose and a charming face. Thus appeared the Supreme Lord.
Looking at her, who was glancing and smiling at them, the entire assembly became enchanted.
And the Deva-Asuras stared as her sari border moved against her ample bosom. ”
-Srimad Bhaagavatham
The Advent of Mohini
“Ahem”, she said, and in a heartbeat silence descended upon the scene like an invisible veil. Every mouth was open wide - some drooling and some just having a momentary attack of lockjaw. “If you don’t mind, Oh sons of Kaashyapa, I would like to distribute the nectar to you.” she said, her voice a combination of a billion nightingales. And the very next moment, the jar of nectar was in her hands. “Yes, Oh Beautiful Lady!!!” sighed the crowd in unison.

What followed is of course, no news to anyone. The Devas were offered all the nectar while the piteous (Oh well, at least they deserved their fair share of the reward) Asuras were cheated out of the deal. All the efforts made by the furious Asuras to fight back against the Devas went in vain, as the nectar had made the Devas invincible. Thus, Maha Vishnu had once again saved the day, and the whole of Devaloka rejoiced at the newly regained strength of its inhabitants.

However, the purpose of the Mohini Avataara had been fulfilled only in part. And so Mohini waited by the shadows of Darukaavana (the forest of Devadaru/Deodhar trees), for the destined time to arrive. She waited and she waited. At long last, on the faraway horizons of Mohini’s sight, appeared a man – the man she had been waiting for. And he was no ordinary being, for he was a perfect match for Mohini. Extremely handsome and strongly built, he had all the desired Lakshanas for an auspicious groom. Carrying a trident in one hand and a kapala (a cup made from a skull) in the other, he came to a standstill in front of Mohini. Mohini glanced up at him, her eyes twinkling with perfect understanding, for the man was none other than Shiva himself, in his enchanting form of Bhikshaadanar - the naked god of extreme beauty.

The Divine Union
The meeting of the two beauties was no mere coincidence. On the contrary, it was the only way to put an end to the atrocities of Mahishi, the buffalo demoness. Long ago, Mahishi had obtained a boon that she could only be vanquished by a male child born to Shiva and Vishnu, who has spent 16 years on earth, living the life of an ordinary mortal. The moment had finally arrived and the heavens awaited the ultimate union of Shiva and Vishnu to yield a male child. The cosmic dice rolled as Shiva came together with Mohini, and in the lush surroundings of the forests, their divine potencies merged. A beautiful child appeared on the green carpet of the forest floor, shining like a thousand suns, a tiny golden bell suspended from his conch-like neck. Shiva and Vishnu beamed down upon their cute offspring. They blessed him with all their powers and then, leaving their new born child on the forest floor, the couple proceeded onto the next stop of their very busy schedule. (The child was later taken up by the King of Panthala and was christened Manikandan. He went on to vanquish Mahishi, as destined, and finally left for his heavenly abode after 16 years of mortal life. We today know him variously as Hariharaputhran, Sastha, Ayyanaar and Ayyappan – the much beloved deity of Sabari.)

With Mohini at his side, Bhikshaadanar decided to roam around the sacred forest of Darukaavana, which reverberated with much peace and silence. The forest was home to a number of rishis and munis - sages who had taken a very different outlook to the existence of god. Over a period of time, they had come to believe that it is Karma (the fruit of one's actions) alone that is supreme and all-powerful, and that the worship of God in any of his countless forms does not yield any fruits. They had come to a conclusion that the Devas were bound by the power of the yagnas to grant them whatever they needed and accordingly, they immersed themselves in the performance of yagnas and meaningless-rituals, following their dogma of Karma endlessly. Their wives also took up their spouses’ view of Karma, and assisted the rishis in their daily rituals. Little did they realise the fact that these deeds could indeed yield the desired fruits only if there was someone to distribute the same? Their misconceptions had to be broken, and they had to be diverted onto the right path of both worship and Karma, else the results would be catastrophic. Shiva, who of course knew all this and much more, finally decided that the time was ripe to prick their balloon, and he set the ball rolling.

The bewitchingly beautiful Lord, accompanied by his equally charming companion, walked onto the streets of the Darukaavana aashramas, begging for alms with the kapala in his hand - the supreme Lord of the universe, who is worshipped continuously by Kubera himself, was begging for alms!!! And out came the rishipathnis (the wives of the rishis), bearing rice and vegetables in their dainty hands. They had been busy all day, preparing a feast for their husbands who were performing yet another yagna. With a haughty nod of their heads, they looked up at the beggar. Their one look at the charming form of Shiva was all that it took for them to give a reaction similar to the one that the Asuras and Devas had given for Mohini – a loud and heavy sigh of amazement and wonder. In a moment, their hearts were no longer with them and they started following the Lord down the streets like lost zombies, letting out deep sighs of yearning and loud shouts of admiration of his captivating form.

Meanwhile, Mohini went on to the yagnashala and danced and sang in front of the rishis. Her perfect movements and her mesmerizing beauty, took little time to distract the rishis from the yagna proceedings. Lust flared up in their little hearts. They abandoned the yagna fire and approached Mohini, their eyes unfocused and drooling by the litres. Just about then, the conglomeration of Bhikshaadanar and his enthusuastic admirers walked past the site of the yagna. The cacophony caused by the crowd of rishipathnis was enough to make the rishis snap out of their lusty trances and look up at what was going on. Their jaws fell open instantly, for they were dumbstruck with two sights- the extraordinary beauty of the Lord and the utter stupidity of their wives. To see one’s wife following another man, with a wild look of lust in her eyes, is any man’s worst nightmare. The rishis were similarly flabbergasted by the lack of virtues that their wives were so flamboyantly exhibiting. Angered by their behaviour, they called out to the leader of the procession. "Hey, you stranger! Why have you come to these woody regions, where we try our best to perform our karmic duties?" they questioned him.

Bhikshaadanar calmly walked over to Mohini and said, "Oh great saints, I too have come here to perform meditation and practice austerities with my wife." Now, that was another blow to the rishis. They had just come to know that their love-interest for the past few minutes was actually the wife of this vain man. "She is your wife?" they demanded. "Look at the way that she behaved in front of us rishis, with all her sensual dancing and cooing. Whatever happened to her vows of chastity?" Bhikshaadanar laughed again. "Look who is talking", he teased, "the rishis who left their yagnas and rituals to drool at my wife. My wife is so much better than all the womenfolk standing right behind me, who have shamelessly followed me. I was told that they were your wives. It is like the pot calling the kettle black." The rishis were dumbstruck at the quick wits of the charming man and had to be content with just glaring at their wives, while the celestial couple moved deeper into the forest.

Bhikshaadanar and Mohini then visited the aashrama of Vasishta, where  they were welcomed with much warmth and respect. Vasishta and his wife seated them on suitable mats and offered them food, water, betel leaves and cool sandal paste. Shiva and Vishnu were extremely pleased with their hospitality, and after blessing the rishi-couple, the divine beings then returned to their respective abodes.

Back at Daarukaavana, the rishis were fuming at their recent embarrassment. They were furious at their wives, at Mohini, at Bhikshaadanar and at themselves. In the midst of all the fury, a single, totally insane thought struck their tainted minds - Why not kill the man who was responsible for this mess? The rishis unanimously agreed to perform an Abichaara Homa (Black magic sacrifice) to kill the Lord. In the burning fires of their yagna they poured in chilies and potent spices. Smoke, thick and black, rose from the fires with an overwhelming smell, as the rishis chanted in strange tongues. Out of the searing fires of the yagna emerged a snake, hissing loudly and spitting venom. It flew like an arrow at the Lord’s neck, egged on by the rishis. But Neelakantha, the drinker of Hala Hala, caught hold of it with a single finger and wore it around his slender waist as his belt. The infuriated rishis now raised a tiger from the fires, but alas the tiger was killed instantly with one quick movement of the Lord’s hand; its skin ending up around the Lord’s hip. Further angered thus, the rishis now sent out evil fire and a drum that produced an ear-splitting fatal noise. The Lord smiled calmly at the receiving end, as he caught both of them in his arms. The fire now glowed with an auspicious yellow tinge and the drum reverberated with the sound of Pranava (Om). The poisonous bee from the yagna became the official shruthi-box for Shiva's dance and the short-demon, Muyalagan, who was capable of inducing various diseases, became the foot stool for the Lord to dance on. Shiva smiled at the rishis once again; this time with mockery twinkling in his eyes. That’s when the rishis lost it all, and their fury burst out in waves. Jumping up, they poured a large volume of libations into their fires and called out to all the evil spirits to help them in their endeavor. The fires burnt tall and bright, licking up the libations that were being offered.

Suddenly, with a shudder that rocked the entire forest, the sacrificial fires finally threw up an elephant, black as the smoke. Large and fearsome, the elephant’s eyes glinted with anger. It thrashed its tail against the tall trees, bringing them down in an instant, and its restless legs created a mini-sandstorm. The rishis looked up at their creation and ordered the elephant to kill the man who was the cause of all their distress. The rogue pachyderm now charged at the Lord, who was standing as relaxed as ever, with his trident on one shoulder. With a vile look, the elephant rushed down, trumpeting madly, its tusks raised high to gore into the Lord. It came nearer and nearer, and the Lord showed no reaction, whatsoever. Finally, when it was barely a few inches from the target, in a flash, Shiva assumed a miniscule form and jumped into the trunk of the elephant. Instantly, the world was engulfed by suffocating darkness. All life and movement stopped abruptly. Neither did the winds blow nor did the seas churn. All was quiet. The Devas panicked and the rishis of Daarukaavana danced in joy. Parvathi, who was playing with baby Kumara at the moment, picked him up and began to run hither-thither - her motherly heart beating with anxiety, for the well-being of all her children as well as the reappearance of her beloved Lord. Back at Darukaavana, the elephant too came to a sliding halt, surprised by the totally unexpected victory.

A moment passed, perhaps two, and all of a sudden the rogue elephant started behaving strangely. It trumpeted loudly again, but this time it was a cry of pain and not of fury. Soon it was rolling all around the clearing, thrashing against the trees. Undoubtedly, the elephant was experiencing some excruciating pain - a continuous internal burning rather. Not being able to bear it any longer, it ran in search of a cool water body. At long last, spotting a pond, the elephant rushed towards it and jumped in with a loud splash.

Silence.

Gajasamhaarar, Art by Deepak Saagar
BOOM....Without warning, the waters suddenly flew up from the pond, like an explosion-of-sorts, and out came Shiva, bursting through the stomach of the rogue elephant. With six arms holding various weapons and two other hands holding the torn skin of the elephant, the Lord was terrific to behold. With one leg resting on the elephant’s head, the other leg lifted up, eyes glinting with fury and hair flying out, Shiva appeared as Gajasamhaarar. So frightening was the sight and so gory was the Lord’s appearance, that Shakthi herself was overcome with fear. Acting instinctively, she tried to remove herself from the spot, all the while restraining a restless baby Kumara, who was apparently super excited at the dramatic appearance of his short-lost father!!! 

Seeing the catastrophic results of the yagna, Veda-Purusha, who had stood by the rules of the yagna, took the form of a deer and surrendered at Shiva's feet, apologising profusely. Shiva took the deer in his left hand, and ordered it to whisper the Vedas into his ear at all times.

With both the Veda-Purusha and the Yagna-Purusha deserting them, the rishis of Daarukaavana started to experience the consequences of their sins against Shiva and Vishnu. They finally realised that it was the Lord himself who had come to teach them a lesson and they surrendered unconditionally at his feet, apologising for their blatant ignorance. The Lord, as quickly calmed as angered, forgave them instantly and granted moksha to the elephant. The rishipathnis also returned to their normal states and blushed with shame at their acts of lust. The rishis had thus finally learnt their lesson on the importance of self-less worship, and with the satisfaction of a mission well-accomplished, the Lord withdrew himself from Darukaavana.

Vazhuvoor Raja-Gopuram
It is believed that the Lord’s heroic feat of vanquishing the rogue elephant, was staged near the present day town of Vazhuvoor in Southern Tamil Nadu. Since this holy town has somehow always managed to slip (வழுவி - Vazhuvi, to slip ) away from any destruction at the times of Pralaya (Cosmic Deluge), it came to be known as Vazhuvoor. The place is also referred to as Veerattaanam in the puranas and is believed to be surrounded by Pippalavanam, Darukaavanam, Badharikaavanam and Sameevanam. The temple’s presiding deity is Ilankilainaayaki sametha Kiruthivaasar, a Linga swaroopa. The goddess is believed to be a granter of Santana-Bhagyam (the fortune of motherhood) to women who pray to her with true devotion. The moolavar Kiruthivaasar is a swayambhu of extraordinary beauty and is adorned lovingly with many serpentine ornaments (Nagabharanam). The temple has been visited by Jyeshta devi and the Sapthamathars, and the Lingas that they had worshiped can be seen even today.

Gajasamhaara Moorthi at Gnanasabhai
The main attraction of the temple is however, the Gajasamhaarar shrine, where the bronze idol of Gajasamhaara Moorthi is worshipped. The shrine is reverentially referred to as Gnanasabhai, or the hall of knowledge, similar to the Kanaka Sabhai in Chidambaram. The idol is of course, an exceedingly beautiful work of art. A peculiar feature of the idol is that the underside of the lord’s left foot is visible. This can be seen in none of the other 63 SadaaShiva Moorthams and is unique to the Gajasamhaara Moorthi. The foot is usually kept covered and is made visible at the time of ritual worship. The complete beauty of the idol can be realised only while circumambulating the shrine. One can then behold the elephant hide covering the back of the idol, the legs hanging loose by the sides, and the intricate depiction of the lord’s weapons - all flawlessly sculpted in bronze. Of particular interest is the intense expression of anger that has been brought out on the Lord's face by the talented sculptor. This idol is placed alongside an idol of Shakthi with Skanda in her arms. Shakthi is portrayed as trying to reluctantly run away from the spot, confused between her care for her husband and her apparent fright. Skanda, on the other hand, is depicted with his index finger pointing towards the Moorthi of Gajasamhaarar as though crying out, “Oh, there is dad, Mommy”. The whole set of bronze sculptures has a very lifelike appearance about it. Just like at Chidambaram, a powerful Yantra has been installed behind the moorthi of Gajasamhaarar. Special worship is often offered to this Yantra to negate the effects of witch-craft and black magic. The Gajasamhaara Taandava is considered to be a form of Oordhva Taandava (Dance of Fury) of the Lord and the Gnanasabhai is praised as one of the Lord’s nine famous dance halls.

Out of the 64 Maheshwara Moorthams, only the Gajasamhaara moortham and the Saha-Uma-Skandar (Somaskandar) moortham, portray the Lord in the presence of both Parvathi and Muruga. On a more esoteric note, the Gajasamhaara Moorthi represents the vanquishing of the untold miseries caused by ignorance and the realization of true knowledge. Skanda, though having originated from Shiva, acts as the middleman between  us and his father, by guiding us on the correct path to the absolute truth. It is to represent this that he sits on his mother's lap and points his finger towards his father in the Gajasamhaara Moortham.

Apart from these, there are separate shrines for Ayyappa (this is believed to be his birthplace), Vinayaka and other Parivara Devathas. Interestingly, at the Navagraha shrine  in the temple, the Planets are positioned in a strange manner. Guru, who is usually antagonistic towards Shani, is shown to be facing Shani here, hence making it a Grahamithra Kshetra. Shani also has a separate shrine dedicated to him, where he is shown to be bearing a bow. There is also a shrine dedicated to the bewitching moorthi of Bhikshaadanar and his companion, Mohini. The idols of Bhikshaadanar and Mohini are some of the other marvels in bronze that grace the temple of Vazhuvoor. 

Bhikshaadanar - yet another bronze marvel
Popular belief has it that nearly 48,000 sages performed severe penance at this kshetra and were blessed with the highest of all knoweledge – the Brahma Gnaana. One of the many strange features of the temple is the location of the Theertham or the sacred pond. Usually, in Shiva temples, Nandi is found between the pond and the Linga. However, at Vazhuvoor, the theertham is present to be between Nandi and the Linga. This theertham has five wells and is famously known as the Pancha Mukha theertham. Every new moon day sees many devotees having a dip in this theertham and worshipping the Lord.

The Vazhuvoor temple celebrates all the major festivals on the Shaivite calendar, but the grandest spectacle is the Gajasamhaara Thiruvizha that is held in the months of February-March (Maasi). It is a three day (on the Pusam, Ayilyam and Magha Nakshatras) celebration, with the actual Gajasamhaaram taking place on the evening of the second day. The first day sees the flag-hoisting ceremony and the beginning of the poojas in the yagna-shaala, followed by a procession of the Chandrashekhara Moorthi. On the second day, the beautiful idols of Bhikshaadanar and Mohini are taken to Rishithoppu, a densely wooded area in the nearby village of Peruncheri. People believe that Rishithoppu was Daarukaavana in the times of yore. The divine couple stay there the entire day, and are worshiped with ritual bathing and .Arathis They return to the temple late in the  evening, and are then seated in the Vasantha Mandapa, facing each other. Amidst the chanting of hymns,  Deeparadhana is offered simultaneously to both the idols, and a beautifully adorned idol of Ayyappa is revealed. The ritual celebrates the union of Shiva and Vishnu, and the subsequent birth of Ayyappa.

Later in the night, the idol of Gajasamhaara Moorthi is decked up with flowers and jewels, and brought outside to the banks of the Pancha Mukha theertham. This is believed to be the pond into which the rogue elephant had jumped after it had swallowed Shiva. The elephant is said to have jumped into the North-Western corner of the pond and Parameshwara tore out of the elephant's viscera, as Gajasamhaarar, at the South-Western bank. Following the sthala purana, the Utsavar is taken to the North-Western corner of the tank. The goddess is simultaneously carried to the south-eastern corner. All of a sudden, a person runs towards the Lord, bearing a fire-pot in his hands, followed by others who carry a large snake fabricated from hay and paper. There is also a man dressed as a large demon and several other costumed devotees, representing the various objects which emerged out of the rishis' Abichara yagna. All of these objects are surrendered at the feet of Gajasamhaara Moorthi. As the highlight of the evening, a huge elephant enters the arena, crafted from colourful clothes and decked with bright flowers. The Lord’s dance of destruction begins with the palanquin-bearers moving to the beat of the resounding drums. The elephant then rushes at the Lord and the idol of Gajasamhaara Moorthi is placed within the interiors of the cloth-elephant. With the disappearance of the Lord, all lights are turned off at every home and temple in the town, and the whole town is immersed in pitch black darkness. Under the cover of darkness, the elephant is rushed to the south-western corner of the pond, where the cloth-elephant is torn apart and the Lord emerges from within. Lamps and camphor are waved before the Gajasamhaara Moorthi and the lights are lit up once again, bathing the town in brilliant colourful hues. The entire re-enactment of the Gajasamhaara episode and the subsequent celebrations continue into the wee hours of the morning. The festival draws to a close the next day with the lowering of the temple flag and a ritual bath for the Lord in the Pancha Mukha theertham. This grand scale re-enactment of the divine feat is unique in itself and takes place at no other place except Vazhuvoor.

Hence, here did Shiva vanquish the rogue elephant and teach a lesson to the self-obsessed dogmatic rishis. Here did he come as Bhikshaadanar to charm the rishipathnis of Darukaavanam, and here he stays, blessing all the devotees, crushing the elephant like negative energies that may trouble them from time to time. Here at Vazhuvoor, in the hall of Knowledge, remains Shiva, the terrific and yet the benevolent, the Lord of Shakthi and the master of all.

முத்தீ கொளுவி முழங்கொ வேள்வியுள்
அத்தி யுரியர னாவ தறிகிலர்
சத்தி கருதிய தாம்பல தேவரும்
அத்தீயின் உள்ளெழுந் தன்று கொலையே

- திருமூலர் திருமந்திரம்

“They lit the Fires Three, the sacrificial blaze roared high.
From inside which arose an Evil Elephant, whose hide the Lord peeled.
Seeking to rival the Lord's might, the Heaven's beings performed a sacrifice unholy,
And all that from that fire arose, The Lord smote for the very fire to consume.”


-Thirumoolar Thirumanthiram