The Saga of Thulukka Naachiyaar, Sri Rangam

At the very heart of Tamil Nadu, on an island created by the forking of the rivers Kaveri and Kollidam, lies one of the largest and the grandest temples dedicated to Maha Vishnu. Variously praised as Sri Rangam, Thiruvarangam, Aranga Maanagaram, Rangapuri and so on, the temple is the first of the 108 Divyadesas of the Sri Vaishnava Sampradaya and the very center of the Sri Vaishnava cult. Presided over by Sri Ranganatha Perumal, who had been worshipped by Sri Raama at Ayodhya, the temple by itself is a bustling town bursting with religious fervor and celebrations. Hundreds of thousands of people visit this place, from all walks of life and from various towns and cities all over India and abroad. They walk through the seven grand circumambulatory paths, visiting various shrines and finally stand before the gigantic moorthi of Maha Vishnu lying on Adisesha, going into bursts of ecstasy and delight as the priest waves the lamps before the moorthi to the loud exclamations of ‘Rangaa… Rangaa…’ They then disperse to pay a visit to the shrine of Ranganayaki, the queen of Sri Ranganatha’s court. As they walk on to the other shrines, only but a few of them branch off to visit a small shrine by the side of the Arjuna mandapa. They alone go to pay their respects to Thulukka Naachiyaar, one of the twelve Ubaya Naachiyaars of Sri Ranganathar and the darling daughter of Alauddin Khilji, the ruler of the Delhi Sultanate (Yes, you can drop your mouth all that you want!!!). WHAT?... HOW?... WHO?... WHEN?.. THIS IS IMPOSSIBLE… You may shout all you want, but here, I lay forward the story of this strange marriage of Sri Ranganatha - a story that spans over sixty years, and a story that transcends all religions to drive home the age old point –

एकं सत् विप्रः बहुधा वदन्ति - रिग् वेदा 

“The truth is one, sages call it by different names” – Rig Veda

It was a time when the entirety of Tamil Nadu had been brought under the rule of the Pandias, after the defeat of Rajendra Chozhan III at the hands of Maravarman Kulasekara Pandian. Following the decline of the Chozhas, the temple of Sri Rangam, which had been under the patronage of the wealthy Chozha Kings, came into the hands of the Pandias. Though the temple changed hands, the Pandia king continued to support the temple with his generous offerings. The death of Maravarman, however, saw a struggle for the throne between his two sons - Jatavarman Sundara Pandian and Jatavarman Veera Pandian. Ultimately, Sundara Pandian lost, which led to his banishment from the Pandia Empite – a banishment that would change the religious history of Southern India for all times to come

It was also a time when the atrocities of the Islamic invaders were reaching new and fearsome heights. Their hatred for idol worship made the Hindus tremble all over - not in fear for their lives, but at the very thought of the possible damages that the holy deities in their hallowed temples would suffer. The ruthless Muslims destroyed the idols that they came across by breaking them into pieces, and by cannon-balling the sanctums in the temples. For larger and sturdier idols, they had a different strategy – they simply defaced the idols or polluted them using unutterable means, thus destroying the sanctity of the Moorthis. The smaller Utsavar Moorthis (Processional Idols), which were exquisite pieces crafted from the expensive Panchaloha (An alloy of Gold, Silver, Copper, Lead and Zinc), were carried off in large heaps to Delhi, where they were melted into new ornaments. Drastic measures were taken by the temple authorities to save the idols from these damages and disrespects. The priests and the other temple officials did their very best to cover the sanctum-sanctorum with bricks and often sent the smaller idols for safekeeping with trusted families. The Muslim forces, however, kept driving further south, plundering every temple in sight and slaughtering scores of innocent devotees. It was then that Sundara Pandian showed his colours. Enraged at his loss to his brother, the fugitive prince literally invited the barbaric Muslim invaders to have a go at Madurai, the prosperous capital of the Pandia Empire, and promised them with untold riches from the famed Meenakshi-Sundareswarar temple if they helped him to overthrow his brother.

The Sultan of Delhi, Alauddin Khilji, the worst tyrant of the Slave Dynasty, was mighty pleased with this offer and promised help to Sundara Pandian. He entrusted the siege of Madurai to Malik Kafur, a slave from Gujarat, who had been purchased by Alauddin to be his personal assistant. Over time he had grown to become the Commander-in General of the Sultan’s army. Though a Hindu by birth, he was converted to Islam by the Sultan and was lavished with every luxury that the Sultan’s court could offer. Malik Kafur on the other hand, remained loyal to Alauddin Khilji and went to great extents to please him. Many consider his conquest of the South to be his greatest contribution to the Delhi Sultanate.

Riches Galore at Sri Rangam

Thus, headed by Malik Kafur, the crushing army came to the banks of the Kaveri en-route to Madurai. On the island bounded by the Kaveri and Kollidam, the army beheld a magnificent temple complex, gleaming with untold riches - Sri Rangam, the holy abode of Lord Ranganatha. Malik Kafur was astonished by the grandeur of the temple, its sheer size, its sanctity, and its riches. However, that did not prevent his plundering instincts from kicking-in. "Charge", he thundered, and his ransacking army broke into the largest functioning temple complex in the world. 

To people who have visited Sri Rangam, you would probably agree with me when I say that it is simply humungous. So huge was Sri Rangam, so large were its streets, and so high were the walls, that Malik Kafur took days to go around the prakaarams (Circumambulatory Paths), looting all the innocent people on his way. The inner temple was fiercely protected by a group of staunch Vaishnavas, who refused to let the Muslims defile their holiest shrine. They held the army out for three days - time sufficient enough to build a wall in front of the main sanctum, thus hiding out the gigantic idol of the reclining god. The priests even managed to bury the idol of Ranganayaki under a Bilva tree, but alas, before they could save the Utsavar of Ranganathar, the army broke in. They killed every single soul in sight, took the Utsavar and marched on with their conquest. After their destruction of the south was complete, Malik Kafur marched back to Delhi.

The whole city of Sri Rangam wore a forlorn look. People mourned the deaths of their near and dear. More so, they mourned the loss of the Utsavar from their sacred temple. According to legend, one brave woman, a temple dancer who could not bear her separation from Manavaala Perumal, followed the army all the way back to Delhi, tracking the idol. She came back to Sri Rangam with vital information on the whereabouts of the Utsavar Moorthi. Since she had followed the Utsavar all the way through, in history, she came to be praised as பின் தொடர்ந்த வள்ளி (‘Pin Thodarntha Valli’ - The lady who followed). With the information given by the danseuse, a few young, bright men came forward and vowed to bring the Utsavar back from Delhi. “We will neither sleep nor eat until we behold with our very eyes the beauty of our Arangan at our temple”, they pledged, and over the next few days they hatched their master plan. A couple of days later, the group set out to Delhi, disguised as an entertainment troupe, headed by Pin Thodarntha Valli.

Meanwhile at the palace of Alauddin Khilji in Delhi, strange things were afoot. When the soldiers had brought in the plundered riches, the daughter of the Sultan, Princess Suratani, was immediately drawn to the charming face of Arangan. "Baapa", she called out to her father, "Can I have this sweet idol to myself? I really like him a lot. Please do not melt him too. I will take care of him properly. Please Baapa, please." she pleaded. Bemused by his daughter’s request, Khilji allowed her to have the idol, and Suratani immediately carried him to her room, bouncing up and down with joy. Over the next few weeks, Suratani was never to be seen without the idol of Arangan. She bathed the idol, dressed it, shared her food with it and even slept with the idol. Pleased with her deep love for him, Ranganathar appeared before her every night and offered her visions of his various forms and avatharas (Very much like our modern day fashion show!). And without actually realising it, the young and beautiful Suratani fell in love with Rangar (…and who would not?).

Suratani falls for Azhagiya Manavaalan, Art by Deepak Saagar

While the princess immersed herself in her deep love for Azhagiya Manavaalan, the entertainment troupe from Sri Rangam finally reached Delhi and asked for permission to perform before the Sultan. When the permission was granted, on a sacred Ekadashi day, they performed before Khilji's court. There, they put on show the best of their dancing, singing and acting skills, and ultimately won the Sultan's applause. Alauddin Khilji was so overjoyed with their performance, that in return he gave them exactly what they expected. "You have been excellent! Simply magnificent! For your talent I offer you anything within the confines of this palace. You are free to take anything, anything that your desire", he offered. "Shahenshah", said Pin Thodarntha Valli, bowing deeply before the Sultan, "we would like to have the statue of our Arangan back at Sri Rangam. That is all that we ask for." "You got it", granted Alauddin Khilji and walked away.

The troupe however knew that the princess was deeply involved with the idol and that she would make a fuss if they took it away. So they waited for night fall, and when the princess was deep in sleep, they retrieved the idol and started out of the city.

They ran as fast as their carts could take them, lest the Sultan sent his army behind. But as luck would have it, Suratani was so distressed to find her idol gone that she jumped onto her horse at once, and followed the entertainment troupe. Fearing for her safety, Malik Kafur immediately followed the princess with his humungous army. Frightened by the sight of the large army on their tail, the entertainment troupe scattered widely. A small group of them finally reached Tirupathi and entrusted the idol to one Kodavar leader, his son and his nephew for safekeeping. The group then split up once again to meet back at Sri Rangam. Also, at the request of the entertainment troupe, the Kodavar family went into hiding until it was safe for the idol to re-emerge.

Back at Sri Rangam, Suratani’s army searched frantically all over the place for the idol. Not finding it anywhere, Suratani gave up her life before the very doors of the sanctum. As her mortal coils hit the ground, a blinding light emerged from within her and merged into the doors of the sanctum – the lovers had finally united in her death.

The death of the princess, however, stirred up a deep fury within Malik Kafur. With a blood-curdling yell, he ordered every single Sri Vaishnava to be brutally murdered. A bloody war followed in which close to 13000 Vaishnavas lost their life. The already plundered temple was further damaged and people fled from the city in thousands. At long last, the beautiful Devadasis of the temple came to the rescue. They used their skills at dancing and singing to seduce the army generals and packed them back home. One particular Devadasi went to great extents and took the chief-general to the top of the Vellai Gopuram on the pretext of showing him the grandest of the temple treasures. There, while pointing out through the window, she pushed him out, killing him instantly. The very next second, she too jumped down and committed suicide, lest she be molested by the Muslim army. Flabbergasted by the death of their Chief, the army finally withdrew from Sri Rangam, leaving behind the wreck of a city that had once gleamed with untold riches.

The temple somehow survived the catastrophe, but a lot of things were not in order. The whereabouts of the Utsavar were not known and the temple festivities had to go on. After much discussion, the head priests then secretly ordered for another identical Utsavar to be made and installed it in the place of the original one.

Thulukka Naachiyaar - Ranganatha's Bride

Sri Ranganathar also appeared in the dream of the chief temple Bhattar and pronounced that he had now taken Suratani to be his bride, and that she too had to be given all the respects that were given to the other Ubaya Naachiyaars. When the Bhattar conveyed his dream to the temple officers and the other citizens of Sri Rangam, they were all amazed by the love that Suratani had for Ranganathar. A shrine was built for this Muslim bride of Lord Ranganatha, and she was given the title of Thulukka Naachiyaar (derived from “Turukkiyar” - the Tamil word for Turkish). Since Islam shuns idol worship, she was enshrined in the form of a painting, richly decorated with inlaid gems and gold, and is worshipped as such even today.

Sixty long years passed by. The original idol of Ranganathar still remained under the custody of the Kodavar family in Tirupathi. Figuring out that the time was now ripe, the family finally came out of hiding, and set out for Sri Rangam, to take the idol back to his original home. However, when Ranganathar arrived at Sri Rangam, there were no celebrations. Instead, pandemonium reigned at the temple. Wasn’t there already one Utsavar in the sanctum?

Namperumal - the princess' love

It had been sixty long years and the people who had witnessed the disaster were long since gone. Doubting the originality of the idol and the story of the Kodavar family, the priests did not allow the deity to be brought into the inner shrine. Instead, they stopped the deity at the Aryabhattal Vaasal (Gate of Aryabhatta) in the third prakaaram and gave him no entry. Interestingly, that very night, Ranganayaki appeared in a boy's dream and asked him to lead the Bhattar to a particular Bilva tree in the third prakaaram and dig under it. The boy too dutifully did the same and out came the long buried statue of Ranganayaki. The Bhattar understood the gravity of this find, and so did the priests and all the citizens of Sri Rangam – the idol waiting at the Aryabhattal Vaasal was indeed the original Rangar. They immediately passed on the news to the king, who was, however, still skeptical about the deity. After much thought, the king asked the priests to search for any living soul whose memory went back to Muslim invasion.

Kailee Thirumanjanam to Namperumal 

It was then that the old and blind temple washer-man came to their rescue. "Bhattar Peruman," he told, meekly, "if permitted, I can find out which of the two statues is the original one. Years ago, when I was but a small boy, my father used to give us theertham (sanctified water) squeezed out from the clothes of the Utsavar. I am very much used to the taste of the theertham. Therefore, by intaking the Thirumanjana Theertham of the two Utsavars, I could possibly recognise the original one." he offered. The Bhattar too agreed, happy at the prospective solution. Immediately Thirumanjanam was performed to both the idols and the theertham was given to the washer-man. At once, the washer-man identified the original statue to be the one that was brought in by the Kodavars. Out of ecstasy he shouted in Tamil, "இது தான் நம் பெருமாள் (This is our Perumal)." The entire temple rejoiced at the recovery of the ancient statue. After sixty odd years, the original Utsavar was finally reinstalled in the temple amidst much pomp and splendour. However, the other Utsavar could not be left alone, for it too had been worshipped for sixty years. The Bhattar, therefore, placed it near Rangan's feet and continued to offer poojas to it. Sixty years after the Muslim invasion, Sri Rangam once again glittered with its long lost resplendent glory.

So even today, in Sri Rangam, at the sannidhanam, we can see two Utsavars receiving worship. Also, the shrine to Suratani is found near the Arjuna Mandapa, next to the main sanctum. Once a year, the Kalyana utsavam of Thulukka Naachiyaar with Arangan is celebrated with great pomp and show at her shrine. In testimony of her unflinching love, to this day, Arangan's breakfast naivedhyam consists of Sweet Roti's, Raw Milk and Butter, cooked Mughalai style. They are first offered to the Naachiyaar and then only offered to Rangan. Later, when betel leaves are offered to the lord after his meal, it is a custom to apply the lime (chunnambu) on the front side of the leaves (like the Muslims do), as compared to the more traditional rear side.  Also, unlike at other Vishnu temples, the Utsavar dons a colourful lungi, as compared to a white silk dhoti (veshti), during his Thirumanjanam (ritual bath). This is famously known as Kailee (Muslim word for Lungi) Thirumanjanam, and is yet another mark of the Islamic culture on the traditions of the temple. In a world that is rampant with religious disputes and sectarian wars, such ancient customs, followed in the most hallowed of our shrines, provide much inspiration for secular tolerance, a mutual feeling which I believe is the need of the hour today  

The temple at Sri Rangam stands tall today (literally and figuratively, for its Rajagopuram is the tallest in all of South Asia), its lost grandeur refurbished, and restored to its rightful position as the spiritual capital of the Sri Vaishnavas. The Muslim invaders could only strip the place of its material wealth, but its true spiritual wealth was left untouched. And as the witness to it all, stands the shrine to the Thulukka Naachiyaar, a Mughalai princess, who had proved beyond any shred of doubt, that it is love alone that matters in the end.

Notes :

1.    Going by historical records, the temple of Sri Rangam was attacked twice by the Delhi Sultanate – in 1311 under the command of Malik Kafur and once again in 1323 led by Ulugh Khan. Yet another raid by unknown invaders is recorded in the year 1331.

2.   During its first attack, the temple lost all of its famed wealth – the many precious gems, golden utensils, palanquins, and diamond jewellery. The legend of Suratani is also associated with the first attack on the temple, when it is believed that the raiding army did carry the processional deity back to Delhi. It is also widely believed that it was the death of Suratani which lead to the second attack, 12 years later. It was this attack that totally sacked the spiritual life at Sri Rangam; the darkest hour for the grand temple.

3.     During the 1311 attacks, it is believed that Pillai Lokacharya fled the temple with the deity and attempted to carry it to Thirumalai. However, owing to his old age and the sudden stress of the attack, he breathed his last at a village near Jyotishkudi.

4.     However, going by history, the removal of the processional deity to Tirupathi did not happen until 1331. The deity was transported to Tirupathi by Swami Vedanta Desikar, who had escaped the hoarding forces by hiding amongst the dead. With him, he also took the only known copy of Srutha Prakaasika, Sudarshana Bhattar’s commentary on Sri Ramanuja’s famous Sri Bhaashyam, and the two sons of Sudarshana Bhattar. From Tirupathi, he then moved to Sathyamangalam in Karnataka, where he composed the now famous Abheethi Stavam, praying for the restoration of peace at Sri Rangam and the destruction of the Muslim invaders. This Stavam, consisting of 29 verses is recited even today to destroy the various fears of devotees.

भयं शमय रंगधाम्नि अनितर अभिलाष स्पृषां

श्रीय बहुलय प्रभो श्रित विपक्षं उन्मूलय |- अभीति स्तवं

“Oh Ranganatha! Do remove the fears that exist in the minds of your devotees, whose only goal is to perform eternal service to you at Sri Rangam

And pray, do grow the wealth of Sri Rangam, in the form of true Vaishnavas, and destroy the invading enemies, who disturb our peace.” – Abheethi Stavam

5.    The Abheethi Stavam was sung daily by Desikar and his disciples, with utmost faith and devotion, for forty long years. During this period, Gopanna, the king of Senji, took the idol into his kingdom for protection. Later in 1371, Gopanna, with the help of the Vjayanagar Empire, drove out the Muslims from Sri Rangam and re-established the original idol at the temple. It was during this time that the confusion arose as to the originality of the idol, which was solved by the old washer-man. It is believed that when Gopanna returned the idol back to Sri Rangam, Desikar was so pleased with his service, that he sang two verses in praise of the brave king (which is a matter of surprise, since none of the aacharyas ever did Narastuti (singing the praises of a man)). The period from 1311-1371 forms the 60 years during which the whereabouts of the idol remained murky.

6.      In commemoration of his invaluable services to the temple, the old washer-man was bestowed with the name Eeram Kolli (The recognizer of wetness). Similarly, the Kodavar’s son, who had brought the idol back to Sri Rangam was named Thiruttaazhvarai Daasar, and the entertainment troupe, who played the key role in the retrieval of the idol from Delhi were blessed as the Isai Ariyum Perumal Koottathaar (The troupe of the Lord, who is the bestower of all music).

7.     To this day, the Utsavar of the temple is lovingly called by the name ‘Namperumal’, in memory of those words which were uttered by the ecstatic washer-man upon recognizing the original idol.

8.      Also, in memory of the brave danseuse who had sacrificed herself for the protection of the temple, to this day, the funeral pyres of all the temple dancers are lit with the sacred fire brought from the temple kitchens.

9.       

P.S. 

I would love to dedicate this post to Varun [Gultee], Vinoth [Dubukku] and Ram [Kama], who were the ones who let me in on this story, one bored night, at the hostels in college :D

The Closed Doors and The Vaigai Bath, Thirumaaliruncholai-Part III

The King of Malabar had his eyebrows locked together in serious thought. “Azhagar does not belong in that land. He should be here. Chera Desa would be a far more appropriate kshetra for the residence of Azhagar” he said to himself. “And then both the statues of Aparanji will be in my kingdom. Ha Ha Ha!!!” The king laughed loudly with the madness of the idea that had suddenly seized his senses.

Today, Chera Desa houses the most famous Malai Naattu Divya Desam of Thiruvananthapuram, where Anantha Padmanabhaswamy gives darshan lying on the Sesha, the entire statue having been sculpted from Aparanji. The King of Malabar, not sufficiently happy with this divine presence of Narayana in his kingdom, was now scheming to smuggle the utsavar idol of Azhagar into the Malabar Coast. “Shall I declare a war with the Pandya King?” he questioned his closest of ministers. “I have to get the idol at any cost. We can easily crush them” he added haughtily.

The minister for treasury stepped forward, “Your Highness”, he bowed low, “The Pandya army, though smaller compared to ours, is highly versatile. Besides, they have the promise from Somasundara, who is none other than Parameshwara himself, that he would protect their empire, no matter what may come. Have you forgotten the rumour of Indra’s invasion? A sole man with a “Bull flag” flying from his chariot, single handedly defeated the army, and all the arrows that found their marks had the Rishaba Muthra (Bull Seal) on them. The Pandya emblem happens to be a fish, and may I remind you that Rishaba is the lord’s mount. I believe the best way to get the idol would be through stealth and magic”, he suggested.

“Hmm… True”, reflected the king. ”The protection offered by Shiva is formidable indeed. We have to resort to the darker sides of our nature. Gather the best of Tantriks and Magicians in the empire and bring them to me before dawn. There is much planning to be done.” Having ordered thus, he dismissed his ministers.

Two days later, eighteen people, well versed in the darker secrets of the Atharvana Veda, Tantra and warfare, secretly left for the capital of the Pandya Empire, Madurai. They were accompanied in spirit by the Guardian Deity of Malabar, Malayala Karuppu. Tackling their way through the Western and Eastern Ghats, they finally landed up at the outskirts of Madurai. Before them, the four magnificent towers of the Meenakshi Sundareswarar temple rose high into the skies, twinkling with lights. Ignoring this splendid sight, they turned their heads left. There, the lone but equally impressive tower of Azhagar Kovil, shone bright in the night lamps.

They had arrived!!!

The Arthajaama Puja was in progress when the eighteen men walked inside. With ashes smeared on their forehead, dressed in clean white silken clothes, they looked like ardent devotees who had come to take part in the ritual worship. The men bowed low before the majestic statue of Azhagar, their eyes closed. To everybody present they appeared to be deep in prayer. However, within their hearts, they chanted in unison, powerful mantras from the Atharvana Veda. They were trying to sap the power of Azhagar and collect it into eighteen specially prepared Kalasas that they had brought with them. Their idea was very simple. Once the divine sanctity of Azhagar was transferred to Malabar, the Aparanji statue would automatically follow them to reside in the actual kshetra than remain at Thirumaaliruncholai, where the sanctity would no longer exist.

But someone was so against their plan. MahaVishnu smiled at their stupidity. How could they transport his powers without his approval? How very naïve of them to think of this as a cake walk? Narayana decided to teach a lesson to the King of Malabar. He summoned Malayala Karuppu, yes the very Karuppu who had accompanied the eighteen magicians, and set him up against his own hordes. “Destroy them!” ordered Vishnu, “their intentions are not honourable.” Karuppu bowed to divine will and set forth to carry his orders.

By now, the eighteen magicians had successfully transferred the sanctity of Azhagar into their Kalasas. Elated with their victory, they rushed out of the temple and down the steps to the Raja Gopuram. There, suddenly, the gigantic doors of the Raja Gopuram closed automatically, as if controlled by invisible hands. By the very force of the doors, the eighteen men were crushed to death and buried under the steps. The eighteen Kalasas floated in mid air to the sanctum and emptied themselves over the statue of Azhagar, returning the divine powers to the rightful place. Azhagar glowed splendidly with renewed sanctity and holiness.

It was then that the priests heard a rustle, like air moving in water. And before them materialised a mighty figure. Dressed as a warrior, complete with a long-sword and matted locks, pitch black in colour, stood Malayala Karuppu. “Oh priests of the temple of Azhagar, I have sinned terribly in trying to steal the sanctity of Parampurusha himself from this abode of his. As a penalty for aiding a thieving mission, I will guard this temple till the end of times. I will make sure that robberies and other immoralities do not take place in the temple and in the surrounding villages. I will guard the temple, over these very eighteen bodies. In times of trouble, I will come in aid.” Having said so, he suffused into the temple doors. The doors glowed bright for a moment with Karuppar’s potency and then everything went quiet. Malayala Karuppar had taken his final place. 

The Doors of Pathinettampadi Karuppar

Since Karuppar stands guard over the eighteen dead bodies of the magicians from Malabar; he is often referred to as Pathinettampadi Karuppar and is the chief guardian deity of Azhagar Malai. In a mark of respect to Karuppar, the main doors of the temple remain closed for most of the year. It is believed that Karuppar resides within them, looking over the kshetra and the neighbouring villages. During this time, the devotees worship the very doors as the guardian deity. They smear sandal paste over the doors to cool his anger and make offerings of long forged swords. Some of the swords are double a man’s height and offer a very frightening sight. The doors also act as the seat of the local Panchayat. It is believed that people who utter lies in the vicinity of these doors have their lives destroyed by the guardian god’s wrath. Villagers wanting to resolve criminal and civil issues bring the accused to the doors of the temple. There the accused is made to promise on his/her innocence with Karuppar as the witness, the belief being that if he/she did do wrong and refused it in front of the doors, then Karuppar would give him/her the rightful judgement. A nominal fee of Rs 6 is charged for any such case brought to the temple doors.

The doors are however, kept open once a year during the Brahmotsava. A strange phenomenon takes place that day. The jungles surrounding the temple, which are usually alive and vibrant with the calls of birds, remain drowned in stark silence.  Not a single bird is found in the vicinity of the temple, and the temperature in the region shoots up by several degrees. People believe that this is indeed a manifestation of Karuppar’s unvented wrath. On this day alone, Chakraththazhwar, the divine discus of the lord, comes out of the temple through the Rajagopuram doors. Even Azhagar does not have this privilege of walking out through these doors. Special poojas are then offered to the open doors before they are closed again at night, never to open for another 365 days.

Karuppar also takes part in the day to day running of the temple. Every morning, the priest who brings water for Azhagar’s abhisheka has to pause before the doors and promise that the water was indeed brought from the Noopura Gangai and not from anywhere else. At the end of the day, the accounts of the daily activities are laid before him and finally he is also entrusted with the keys of the temple treasury at night. He is also invoked for the protection of the lord and his retinue when Azhagar embarks on his 10 day long trip to Madurai, in the month of Chithirai every year. And that brings us to the grandest story ever of Azhagar Kovil - a story that is enacted every year, to this very day.

The Queen of Madurai, Thadaathagai, was to marry Somasundarar (the one as beautiful as the moon), who was none other than Shiva himself, in a spectacular ceremony that was to be held at the city center. Having lost her father at a very young age, Thadaathagai had no one to give her away during the Kanikaadhaanam ceremony (The Kanikaadhaanam is when the father places his daughter’s hand in the palm of her future husband and pours water over the enjoined hands, signifying the giving away of his ownership on the bride. This is often considered the most important part in a Hindu Marriage). Highly distressed, Thadaathagai turned to her brother for help, “Narayana!!! Azhaga!!! Will you give me away in marriage to my lord?” she pleaded. Vishnu readily agreed to the prayers of his dear sister. “I will come down from my hilly abodes of Vrishabadri with all due respects and gifts and give you away in marriage to Eeshwara. Do not worry and brighten up, Oh bride!!!” he teased. Delighted by the promise, Thadaathagai prepared herself for her marriage.

Next day, the sun rose over the horizons to the recitation of the Vedas and mantras echoing from the marriage hall. Somasundarar sat at the altar, all decked up, radiant and bright, the most handsome one on earth. The sacrificial fire was lit and due offerings were being made when Thadaathagai entered. Escorted by her mother, Kanchanamaala, she made her way to the stage and sat besides Somasundarar. The marriage rituals were proceeding in full swing and everyone was eagerly waiting for Azhagar’s arrival.

Meenakshi Thirukkalyanam

At that very moment, by the banks of the river Vaigai on the far side of the city, Azhagar stood with his retinue, in a thorough fix. The Vaigai was in a spate. There was no way his retinue could ever cross the river and make it to the city safely. He decided to go alone and stepped into the river, wetting himself all over. Through sheer determination he waded across the rushing waters and made it to the city and finally to the marriage hall. And there, to his great shock, the marriage feast was being enjoyed thoroughly by one and all. The marriage was over!!! Azhagar was livid with anger and he stormed out of the city in a huff, feeling dishonoured and embarrassed.

However, at the banks of the Vaigai, he was met by the newly married couple accompanied by Koodal Azhagar. “Azhaga, don’t be in a huff.” reasoned Somasundara. ”The auspicious time prescribed for the marriage was running out. I had no choice but to call upon Koodal Azhagar to give away the bride. After all, she is his sister too”. With Somasudarar’s soothing words, Azhagar realised his folly and blessed the divine couple with his whole heart. “Forever, shall I guard this empire of yours, my sister”, he said. And then, with his retinue in tow, he returned back to Vrishabadri.

Azhagar Aatril Iranguthal

This divine play of the gods is enacted every year with much fanfare during the Chithirai Thiruvizha at Madurai. Ten days prior to Chithira Pournami, Azhagar sets out from his abode in Vrishabadri with a large retinue. Pathinettampadi Karuppar is first invoked for protection during the journey and a complete inventory of the items that are being taken is placed at the doors. Over the next 10 days, the itinerary of Azhagar covers a lot of places, mandapas and hamlets on the way to Madurai. On the day of Chithira Pournami, at Madurai Thallakulam, Azhagar is adorned with a garland that has been worn by Sri Aandal in Srivilliputhur, thus keeping up with his unending love for “Soodikodutha Sudarkodi” Sporting this fragrant garland, he finally reaches the banks of the Vaigai and with his entire retinue, gets down into the river. Azhagar is dressed as a hunter, with a red turban around his crown and a long spear in his hand. He is seated on a golden horse that is shown to be prancing with the happiness of being able to carry the Paramapurusha himself on its back. This event marks the highlight of the Chithirai Thiruvizha and is called “Azhagar Aatril Iranguthal”. At the same time, Koodal Azhagar enters the river from the Madurai side to welcome Azhagar. He is seated on a silver horse and comes with the hope of explaining the change in the marriage plans to Azhagar. This divine meeting is referred to as “Ethir Sevai” and thousands of people bathe in the river when the two Azhagars get into it. The citizens of Madurai sport small water guns with which they spray water onto Azhagar and Koodal Azhagar, completely soaking them from crown to lotus-feet. It is a loving act of welcome by the Madurai citizens, through which they try to reduce the extreme effect of the peak summer sun on the Lord’s delicate skin. 

People also get very excited about the dress that Azhagar is adorned with when he gets into the river. The general belief is that the color of Azhagar’s dress will dictate condition of the year ahead. Green silk indicates prosperity and growth, red foretells a year of famine and disasters, while white indicates just another normal year. On the morning of the Vaigai Spectacle, the chief priest places a blindfold over his eyes and plunges his hand into the huge trunk that contains Azhagar’s clothes. From the trunk he draws out the first dress-robe that he reaches. The emergent dress is believed to be a direct consequence of divine will and is thus a sacred forecast of the year ahead.

Azhagar as Matsya, Koorma and Vaamana Avataras

Garuda Seva before Manduka Moksham

That night, Azhagar stays by the Vaigai, at the Thenur Mandapam, and accepts offerings from the local people. He thrills them with darshans of his different incarnations in a session that lasts over the entire night, often called the “Dasavathara Seva”. At dawn the next day, Azhagar comes out majestically, riding astride Garuda and offers moksha to Manduka Maharishi. Finally, his duties completed and the purpose of the trip being served, he turns back to his hilly abodes and arrives at the temple amidst much celebrations. The inventory that was kept before Karuppar is cross checked once again with the available items and Azhagar finally returns to his sanctum inside the temple, concluding the fortnight long Thiruvizha. This is praised as being one of the most colourful festivals of South India, and people throng to Madurai in large numbers to witness both the celestial wedding of Meenakshi-Sundareswarar and the annual Vaigai bath of Azhagar.

As Raama, Krishna and Mohini at Thenur Mandapam

Before the days of Thirumalai Nayakkar, the two festivals were celebrated separately, with the Azhagar Thiruvizha happening in Chithirai (April-May) and the Thirukkalyana Vizha being observed in Maasi (February-March). To promote Shaiva-Vaishnava unity, the then ruler of Madurai, Thirumalai Nayakkar, combined these two festivals into a single grand-scale celebration to be observed in the month of Chithirai. To this day, the poojas at Azhagar Kovil are carried out without any Shaiva-Vaishnava disparities, keeping up with the King’s words. Also, followers of Jainism, Islam and Buddhism are known to have offered their respects at the temple at various points of time in history.

Apart from the Chithirai Vizha, the temple celebrates it’s Brahmotsavam in Aadi ( July-August) and has a three day Thirumanjana Festival in Aippasi (October-November), when Azhagar is taken up the hills to the source of the Noopura Ganga for a ritual bath. The temple also celebrates various other Vaishnava and Tamil festivals like Sri Jayanthi, Rama Navami, Pongal, Tamizh Varuda Pirappu and so on. Every month, there is always some festival or the other that is observed at the temple amidst much chantings and grand processions.

Tulabharam is a favorite act of offering at the temple. Devotees, whose prayers have been fulfilled, donate coins and paddy in equal measure to their body weight at the temple offices. Many others also tonsure their heads and offer their hair as a return for their answered prayers. Offering clothes and dresses to adorn the Moolavar is still another practice that is in vogue. And we have already read about the tasty dosas that get made from the grains that are offered by the grateful farmers for their bountiful harvests. Once upon a time, the temple boasted of rich and generous donations from kings and powerful visitors. Such was the sanctity of the place.

Azhagar Kovil is just 18 km from Madurai and plenty of buses ply from the city. I would recommend that you set aside an entire day for this visit, for it would also include a short climb up the beautiful green hill to the Pazhamuthirsolai Temple of Muruga and a further short walk to Noopura Gangai and the Raakayi amman temple. People flock in large numbers on Saturdays and Sundays to have a glimpse of the lord and then relax lazily under the shady trees that are plentiful in the region. It is not an uncommon sight to see large families enjoying picnics at various places on the hillock. The cool waters of Noopura Gangai are really a pleasant relief in the hot months of summer. And above all, you get to behold the awe inspiring closed doors of Karuppar, replete with the swords and of course feast your eyes on the beautiful Aparanji statue of Azhagar.

மாலிருஞ்சோலையென்னும் மலையையுடையமலையை 

நாலிருமூர்த்திதன்னை நால்வேதக்கடலமுதை

மேலிருங்கற்பகத்தை வேதாந்தவிழப்போருளின் 

மேலிருந்தவிளக்கை விட்டுசித்தன்விரித்தனவே - பெரியாழ்வார் 

"This Thirumaaliruncholai kshetra, the Lord who has this place as his residence and the holy mountain which houses the divinely beautiful mountain, who is Vishnu,

Who has eight forms and who is the very nectar which emerged from the sea of the four Vedas,

Who is the most compassionate, who is the ever granting Karpaka Vriksha, and who is beyond the very essence of the Vedanta.

This divine beauty of the one who is the most beautiful, Vishnu Chittar sings in his praise, the above ten verses"  - Periyazhwar